Nicaragua

Introduction

Although gaining in popularity as a tourist destination, much of Nicaragua is undeveloped. One of the poorest countries in the Americas with pot-holed roads, rolling blackouts and houses with corrugated plastic roofs, Nicaragua nonetheless is worth visiting. Sandwiched between Honduras to the North and Costa Rica to the South, the Central American country boasts pristine beaches and world-class surfing breaks, exotic and untouched flora and fauna, and fascinating Spanish colonial history. Their seafood, meat, fruit, coffee and chocolate are all straight from the source, providing an unmatched and underrated gastronomic experience. Just be prepared for a dose of bumpy car rides, 4am rooster crows and learning Spanish on the fly!

Getting Around

Public transportation in San Juan del Sur is virtually nonexistent. If you stay at Pelican Eyes they will provide a shuttle into town. There are also surf shops that will offer rides to beaches and breaks. If you hire a tour company, they can pick you up from where you are staying. Taxis are also available, but not cheap, and you have to schedule ahead.

Grenada is small enough that you can travel anywhere you need to go on foot. However, if you are white and female, I recommend against wandering around that city alone. On one of the days that Tim was surfing, I decided to strike out on my own to explore Grenada. I stuck out like a sore thumb and was subsequently harassed for 6 straight hours by local boys and men. When Tim joined me in Grenada the next day, I received zero cat-calls or aggressive demands for money–so beware!

Where to Stay in San Juan del Sur

This was our honeymoon, so we stayed at the most expensive and resort-y place we could find in San Juan del Sur, Pelican Eyes Resort and Villas. We stayed in a 2-story villa with terraces upstairs and downstairs, killer views, a kitchen bigger than the one we had at home, daily breakfast, and multiple infinity pools on the property–all for about $1,100/week. There are certainly lower-priced options in town, but you can find top-notch accommodations for stupid cheap here.

Fun Things to do in Nicaragua

• Yoga

I did a drop-in class at Zen Yoga in San Juan del Sur. I am by no means a yogi but the class was accommodating of my lack of experience while also providing a relaxing and fun workout. The studio is outdoors, and you could see the tops of the houses and trees in town while hearing the soothing sounds of birds.

• Hike to the Jesus Statue

Perched above the northernmost seawall of San Jan del Sur, the Christ of the Mercy statue is the second largest to Rio de Janiero’s iconic Christ the Redeemer. It’s a fairly strenuous hike to the top, so bring your sneakers. Bring a few cordobas with you for the entrance fee ($2 or $3 USD). The view from the top is spectacular. Before you go, make sure you are aware of the tide schedule. On our hike up, we walked across the beach where a river empties out into the bay. When we returned, the water was 6 feet deep in places and we were told there were crocodiles lurking! A group of entrepreneurial boys were pulling a rickety boat across the river for 5 cordobas, which was our only alternative to getting eaten by crocs.

• Ziplining

We did a local eco park called Parque de Adventura close to where we were staying in San Juan del Sur. They offer canopy tours, a “Tarzan” swing, rappelling and nature trails. We did not see the promised monkeys but at the time they had an iguana refuge that we were able to check out!

• Tour of Lake Nicaragua

Lake Nicaragua is the largest lake in Central America, and contains hundreds of islands in its waters, including the two-coned volcanic island of Ometepe. Many of these islands are inhabited, and the only way to get around is by boat. We did a boat tour of the lake, stopping at several islands including one where a monkey hopped on as a guest. The tour guide also picked up what appeared to be a thin banana and dared us to guess what it was. After holding it for a few minutes and turning it around in our hands, it exploded into a flower!

• Coffee Tour

While there is a cafe in downtown Grenada that offers an on-site coffee tour, you can find a more immersive experience by heading to Matagalpa. Check out this post from Mel on the Go about her day on a coffee farm in Nicaragua!

• Festivals

Latin America loves their religious celebrations and Nicaragua is no different. We were there during a uniquely Nicaraguan Christmas tradition to celebrate the Immaculate Conception. Fireworks went off at all times of day during the week we were there. I was in Grenada during their celebration of the Virgin Mary, wandered through a street parade and stood in the back of a crowded church while the priest gave the homily en Espanol. December 7th is “La Griteria” (the shouting), where the entire town of San Juan del Sur came alive at night. The church in the center of town, Iglesia San Juan Bautista, was lit up and people were gathered outside. Families meandered from house to house, where children would pick up sweets and drinks from the homeowners. And of course, more fireworks.

Running

In both San Juan del Sur and Grenada, the roads are rough and are not conducive to a run. It’s also sticky and humid, even in the mornings and evenings. I tried to find a gym in both places, and I’m pretty sure Nicaraguans don’t go to gyms. The one gym I found in San Juan del Sur was not air-conditioned and the equipment was old, rusty, and mostly broken.

Surf Spots in San Juan del Sur

Surfing in Nicaragua has a lot going for it. There’s swell pretty much year round, the winds are consistently offshore, and the water is tropical. That’s pretty much the ideal combination for a solid surf trip. 

We planted ourselves in San Juan Del Sur, which is the most well-known hub for surfing in Nicaragua. The issue with SJDS is that there is not actually any surf near the town. The good news is that the local surf shops all offer shuttles to the various breaks in the area for around $5 round-trip. “Rugged” is a kind description of the roads there, so the shuttles are a better bet than using a rental car. These surf shops obviously rent boards as well, although it was a bit tricky finding a decent shortboard in my size. When I did find one, it was $25 for the whole week, so I can’t complain too much. 

The surf itself was amazing. You wouldn’t describe any of the neighboring breaks as “world class” but they were perfect for me. I am an experienced surfer and I like to push my limits, but I also appreciate not drowning. The waves were generally 3-5 foot and punchy for our entire trip. The “big” day was a foot or two overhead and hollow, but without any sharp reef to worry about, it was pretty tame. 

I’d say Nicaragua is the perfect trip for the somewhat experienced surfer that wants to get off the beaten path a bit. It feels like what Costa Rica must have been like 20 years ago. Cheap, warm and fun. –Tim

Food

With Central America being a hot-spot for coffee plantations and coffee production, you would be remiss if you did not indulge in Nicaraguan coffee during your trip. Cafe Las Flores is a chain of coffee shops in Nicaragua that serves high-quality, artisan coffee.

Bar y Restaurantes Brisas Marinas in San Juan del Sur is a beach-front bar and restaurant with excellent seafood dishes and an ideal location for a romantic sunset dinner.

There are tons of independently-owned restaurants and taquerias in both San Juan del Sur and Granada that offer delicious food. You might need to brush up on your Spanish to communicate your order, but the freshness of every dish is really unparalleled. We ate fish at a restaurant on Lake Grenada that was literally caught a few hours before, and it didn’t even taste like any fish I’ve eaten before. The fruit we ate for breakfast every morning–the pineapples, bananas, and melons especially–were sweeter and richer than any fruit you would consume in the States.

Recovery Meetings

Here is the link to the meeting in San Juan del Sur. Most of the guys at the meeting are old-timers living their best life in paradise, and they are always excited to have visitors!

Here is a link to additional AA meetings in the country. There’s not a lot, so those who attend are road-tripping most of the time.

Looking for some other surf-centric destinations? Check out our section for surf enthusiasts!