The Temperate Traveler

Barbados

If you are looking for a quick winter getaway to warmer climes, the easternmost Caribbean island of Barbados is ideal: Many major airports in the US offer direct flights, English is widely spoken and American dollars are accepted. Situated close to St. Lucia and Grenada, you are guaranteed tropical, breezy weather and a large dose of sunshine. The citizens of Barbados, colloquially known as Bajans (pronounced like “Asian”, but with a B in front) are incredibly friendly and hospitable. And the food is amazing, featuring a mix of fresh seafood and traditional Bajan culinary delights like macaroni pie, fish cakes and fried plantains.

The 21-mile-long sovereign country is a former British colony with the highest standard of living in the West Indies. This means you will pay out the nose for lodging, transportation and food. However, you also won’t be smacked in the face with abject poverty the minute you step foot off the resort, like you would in other popular Caribbean islands. Because of the strong economy and less stratified society, you get to experience more of the true Barbadian life as a traveler because the citizens are not relegated to slums and favelas on the outskirts of the touristy areas. The Barbadians themselves are enjoying the same delicious restaurants, fun attractions and beautiful beaches as you are. There is something refreshing in that.

While Barbados has been known for its rum since the days of the real Pirates of the Caribbean, the laid-back vibe of the island means that alcohol isn’t really in your face unless you go looking for it. There is plenty of fun to be had on the island for sober travelers. Read on to learn about the activities and relaxation in store for you during your sober trip to Barbados.

Planning a Sober Trip to Barbados

Flights: You can find direct flights from most major airports in the United States, especially during high season. We flew out of Newark Airport, which seems to the direct flight capital of the country. While we live equidistant to both the Newark and Philadelphia airports, we have only found direct flights to places like Dubrovnik, Tenerife, and Tokyo out of Newark. Anyway, a flight to Barbados from most places in the US will set you back about $500 for an Economy ticket.

Travel tip: To avoid standing around in a long line when you arrive, download and fill out the online customs form within 72 hours of your arrival. No other passengers knew about the form and so we all waited 30-45 minutes standing in a line just to fill out the form, and then another 20 minutes to get through customs.

Accommodations: Being so close to the Equator, there isn’t much variety as far as climate, but there is a dry season (winter) and a rainy season (summer, fall). Hurricanes usually pass this island by, but it’s best to avoid hurricane season anyway due to sloppy weather. Winter is high season in Barbados, which means that the reasonably-priced rooms at the nice resorts and hotels get snapped up early, and Airbnbs are relatively scarce. When planning a vacation, I am used to having my pick of high-quality, high-value accommodations (even last minute) but this is not the case with Barbados. So book early!

Getting Around in Barbados

Renting a car in Barbados is treacherous, especially if you are accustomed to driving on the right-hand side of the road. Roads are narrow, potholes are plentiful, and they love their opposite-side round-abouts. We chose not to deal with the headache of renting a car in a foreign country and instead relied on taxis to get around–more on that in a minute. Where we stayed in St. Lawrence Gap was also within walking distance to several beaches and an array of restaurants, and the tours we took provided transportation. There are three main ways to get around in Barbados if you don’t rent a car:

Taxi: If you are staying in a hotel, staff typically can call a taxi for you. While Uber and Lyft have not yet infiltrated the island, there is an Uber-like app called Pick-up Barbados, which allows you to call a taxi from your phone anywhere on the island. We used this app frequently, and Tim used it to get to various surf breaks with his board. It was super convenient, although not quite as flawless as using the “real” Uber or Lyft. For instance, you couldn’t always tell how far away the taxi was from where you were located, or how long it would take to get to a particular spot. But to get from Point A to Point B in high-traffic areas, it worked really well. You also have the option to call a van, which helps with larger groups or when traveling with a surfboard.

Z Car: Almost as terrifying as driving but might be fun for the more adventurous traveler, these small buses are marked with a brown stripe and speed up and down the main thoroughfares packed with humans, all while blasting loud music. They do, however, get you to where you need to go for a cheap price.

Bus: The bus network is the main form of public transportation for the country, and generally covers most of the island, aside from the more rural central parishes. A one-way journey costs $3.50 in Barbadian dollars ($1.75 US). The vehicles themselves are electric and modern and are an affordable mode of transportation. However, like most public transportation, you will need to allot a more generous travel time budget than if you took a taxi.

Where to Stay in Barbados

The entire island is only 166 square miles (for comparison, New York City is 469 square miles), so no matter where you stay, you will be able to access other parishes on the island. That being said, driving 4-5 miles in most parts of the island will take you at least 25 minutes, so you’ll want to be strategic about where you book your hotel. Here is the scoop on the three most popular areas:

South Coast and West Coast

This is the most “touristy” area, but also the most convenient. We used Booking.com to secure our reservation at the Yellow Bird Hotel, a boutique accommodation perched at the entrance of St. Lawrence Gap in Christ Church. It had killer views from the balcony and was located within walking distance of several beaches, restaurants and surf breaks. This area also features several well-regarded resorts including Bouganvillea Barbados and Sandals Barbados. St. Lawrence Gap is considered the place to go for nightlife, although the Yellow Bird is somewhat removed from the action.

Where we stayed in St. Lawrence Gap, and the view from our room

The South includes Miami Beach (not that one) and Oistins, home to the famous Oistins Fish Fry that takes place every Friday evening. The Southwest end of the island also features a small boardwalk on Rockley Beach, and further North is the colossal Hilton resort wrapped around Carlisle Bay.

Holetown and Speightstown

On the West Coast, Holetown and Speightstown offer historical intrigue and colonial-era architecture, having been established around the time the island was colonized. Holetown has spots for higher-end shopping, such as the Lime Grove Lifestyle Center, as well as the multi-million-dollar homes of several celebrities, including Barbados’ own Rihanna Fenty. Further North, the former British sugar port of Speightstown provides a wealth of history as well as shopping and dining options, but with a laid-back vibe. This area is also ideal for swimming, as the waves are warm and gentle, protected from the whipping winds of the Atlantic.

Bathsheba/East Coast

The Eastern side of the island is far removed from the hustle and bustle of the South and Southeast ends. There are a few small towns dotted along the coast, including Bathsheba, but it is generally a place where people come to get away from it all. This side of the island is the most mountainous, offering incredible views from many of the local accommodations and hotels. While it is great for surfing, the Atlantic winds and strong currents make it less than ideal for swimming and snorkeling.

Where to Eat in Barbados

You will eat very well in Barbados. From street food from food stands at the Oistins Fish Fry to upscale dining with a view at Primo, there is no lack of options to choose from.

Here are a few of the restaurants we dined at:

Happy Days Cafe: Nestled in the chattel house village in St. Lawrence Gap, Happy Days serves up some of the best breakfast in the area, featuring both traditional Bajan dishes like grilled tomatoes and beans but also pancakes, French toast and eggs. I had their blueberry pancakes, which were light and fluffy, with a sweet burst of fruit in every bite.

Primo: Also in St. Lawrence Gap with seaside dining, Primo Bar & Bistro offers a variety of delicious apps and entrees to go along with the stunning views. Tim enjoyed the Primo burger while I had the chicken roulade, and shared the Primo buns–basically bao buns, which were on the menu of several of the restaurants we dined at.

Tapas: On the Richard Haynes Boardwalk with an ocean view from virtually every table, Tapas is an upscale eatery with a menu featuring seafood, pasta and of course, small plates. The lamb rigatoni was tasty, and their desserts were the best we had on the entire trip–and we ate dessert every night. Try the fried banana with ice cream, it will be a party in your mouth!

One thing to note: be cautious of certain foods and treats, like black cake, that might have rum in the ingredients or sauce. That could spell trouble for any sober traveler who isn’t careful. Plus, that alcohol-soaked food probably tastes gross. A terrible way to relapse, in my opinion.

Fun Sober Things to Do in Barbados

While I did a fair amount of lounging by the pool during our trip to Barbados, I did block out some time to explore the island, as well as go snorkeling. As usual, I booked tours to accomplish this. It’s preferable to wasting time trying to figure out where to find the landmarks and attractions, getting lost and frustrated, and putting a damper on my vacation. The best tours for the best prices typically can be found on Viator.

Barbados Island Tour

Clockwise from top left: St. John’s Parish Church, Bridgetown, Animal Flower Caves, View from St. John’s Parish Church

Since we did not rent a car, I paid for a daylong excursion to ensure I hit all of the points of interest on the island. I used Viator to book the 360-Degrees Tour in Barbados with Pickup, hosted by SunTours Barbados. Our Bajan tour guide shared a vast amount of knowledge with the group about the island’s history, culture and geography as we puttered around the island on a bus. Animal Flower Cave was an impressive row of cliffs hugging the rural Atlantic coast, as white-capped waves crashed violently against the bulwarks. We spent some time at Bathsheba, a sleepy surf village sloping down to the beach, with mushroom rocks jutting out of the water. My favorite stop was St. John’s Parish Church. Each parish (or county) has its own central church, in addition to neighborhood churches that locals might attend out of convenience. St. John’s Parish Church was built in its current iteration in 1836, out of stone and wood. While the church itself is beautiful, what pulled me in was the quiet, mossy graveyard overlooking the mountains and ocean below. It was striking, yet peaceful.

Snorkeling: On Carlisle Bay, there are several tour companies that offer hour-long snorkeling excursions to see turtles as well as a shipwreck that is home to a vast array of colorful fish and fauna. Our tour operator was Beautiful Barbados, which also offered us transportation to and from our hotel. The crew and guide were playful and quirky, adding to the entertainment. There was also a water slide, which I took full advantage of.

Beaching: Barbados has a TON of gorgeous beaches with pillowy sand and shimmering water that are generally not crowded. I hit a few spots including Maxwell Beach and Worthing Beach where I plopped under a palm tree for a few hours, gazing at the waves lapping onshore, the water sparkling like the Crown Jewels of England.

Oistins Fish Fry

Every Friday night in the seaside town of Oistins in Christ Church, hundreds of locals and tourists gather for the Oistins Fish Fry. It’s an experience, for sure. Be ready for boisterous music, lively performers and throngs of people. Dozens of vendors serve up cheap Bajan food from stalls lined up in rows around the venue, which is adjacent to the beach. If you go early, around 6pm, you can avoid the lines that tend to form later in the evening and might even catch a sunset.

Running in Barbados

Running is not the easiest activity in Barbados, but you can make it work. There are no running trails to speak of, and the boardwalks are only a mile or so long. The various beaches are not connected, and sidewalks are kind of sketchy, so you are running in fits and starts. Plus, the sun is relentless the minute it peeks above the horizon in the morning. But you can manage a decent run if you map your route beforehand, head out early, and pace yourself.

Surfing in Barbados

Surfing is most fun on the South and Southwest Coasts. The water is warm (around 80 degrees), the breaks are consistent, and the crowds are not intense. While Bathsheba on the East Coast boasts the Soup Bowl, a break that is a favorite of Kelly Slater, the waves were trash when we were there, even as a pro surfing event was taking place. During our four-day trip, Tim surfed Brand’s End and Freights Bay in the South end of the island and had amazing sessions every day.

There are several highly rated surf shops in the South of the island that offer a wide selection of boards, with staff who are familiar with the best local breaks and surf conditions. Dread or Dead Surf School in Bridgetown is in close proximity to the Richard Haynes Boardwalk and Rockley Beach, which is where Tim went for his board rental. There is also Barry’s Surf School on Dover Beach, located at the end of St. Lawrence Gap, not far from several of the best breaks such as Freights and South Point.

Recovery Meetings in Barbados

Lucky for our English-speaking readers, virtually all of the 12-step meetings in Barbados are in our native tongue, so you have your pick. Here are the guides to AA meetings in Barbados and NA Meetings in Barbados. Most of them are located in the Southern part of the commonwealth, but all are fairly easy to get to given the size of the island and accessibility of public transport.

If you are interested in more sun, sand and surf, check out my sober destination guides to Puerto Vallarta and San Diego!

Sober Girls Trip to Miami Beach

The words “Girls trip” and “Miami” usually conjure up notions of a gaggle of scantily clad women chugging fruity drinks on the beach, with or without bachelorette party sashes. It’s actually way more fun to do Miami sober, and you don’t end up bickering passive-aggressively with your friends before the weekend is over. Read on to find out all that South Beach and The Magic City have to offer sober female travelers with the following guide detailing the best things to do, places to eat, and meetings to hit for a memorable trip with your tribe!

Who should I go with to Miami Beach?

Are you going with a friend or two? Family members? A large group? What kind of things do they like to do on vacation? Are they beach people, and you prefer going on a museum tour? Before booking your trip, make sure your interests are aligned with those who are joining you.

If you are planning a sober girls’ trip, it’s obviously a good idea to choose someone who is sober, sober curious or who at least is down to not drink for most of the vacation. You don’t want to be the perpetual DD hanging out in sweaty clubs until 2am pretending to have fun.

On my most recent trip, I brought a friend who is sober, likes to go running in the morning and is interested in sporting events and concerts—my kind of girl. I’ve also traveled with my sister and my mom, who are not sober but for whom alcohol doesn’t factor frequently into their lives. When you have a travel partner on the same wavelength and schedule, it makes the trip enjoyable for all parties involved.

Where should I stay in Miami for a girls’ trip?

Ocean Drive and the beach at 14th Street

If you are going on a girls’ trip, you want to be at least kind of fancy. So where are the best places to stay in Miami with your besties? While the downtown neighborhoods offer several major hotel chains that are easier on the wallet, that area is not ideal if you are looking to beach.

Miami Beach, and specifically South Beach, offer the quintessential Miami experience: beach, neon, people on roller skates. There you will find well-located boutique hotels in the Art Deco mold with rooftop pools and cafes on-site, most of which can be found on Booking.com. There is also a plethora of options on Airbnb that often offer separate bedrooms, as well as kitchens or efficiencies–the kind of space and conveniences that are helpful when traveling with a group. We found an apartment on Airbnb that was more affordable and spacious than the local hotels, but still centrally located and with higher-end amenities and features.

How do I get around in Miami?

If you live in the States, getting to Miami is fairly easy, as most major airports will have direct flights into the city. Avoiding Miami International is in your best interest, however, because the airport is huge, chaotic, and difficult to navigate. Living near Philadelphia, the Trenton Airport has direct flights into Fort Lauderdale, which is a 45-minute drive from Miami and is exponentially more convenient.

Like withe most cities, traffic and parking are brutal in Miami. The fact that everyone discovered remote working in Florida during the pandemic didn’t help matters. Bottom line, you’ll want to minimize driving if at all possible. Since we planned to take a road trip to the Keys, we booked a comfortable, new-smelling hybrid SUV from RentalCars.com. However, if we had just been staying in Miami, we would have stuck to Uber. Uber drivers in Miami have curiously nice cars like Teslas and Escalades and are always available, even during peak times. We also stayed a block off Ocean Drive, which was steps away from the beach and the Art Deco District, so we did plenty of walking. Considering it was 80 degrees with a slight breeze for the duration of our trip, we were completely fine with this.

Fun sober things to do in Miami

Many tourists head to Miami for the nightlife, but there is so much else get into. South Beach is a stunning stretch of sand that is popular year-round, with a long, meandering pedestrian trail traveling parallel to the water for your biking, running and walking pleasure. There are world-class indoor and outdoor museums, fun tours that take advantage of the city’s renowned art and culture and gorgeous weather, as well as a burgeoning culinary scene. The Miami Dolphins and Miami Marlins are becoming relevant again in their respective sports, and the city attracts thousands of people for Art Basel every December and Ultra Music Festival in March.

At the time my friend and I traveled to South Beach in mid-January, the city was hosting Art Deco Weekend to celebrate the famous architecture that lines Collins Avenue and Ocean Drive. The weekend features dozens of food vendors and artisans, a classic car show, films, lectures and other activities. We took the “South Beach Crimes & Scandals Tour” where we learned all about Miami vice over the last century: political corruption, illegal gambling, mob figures and alcohol during prohibition. Even if you don’t come to Miami during Art Deco Weekend, the Miami Design Preservation League runs similar activities, tours and a gift shop year-round.

Read on for additional fun sober things to do in Miami:

Vizcaya Museum & Gardens

Minutes from downtown and Miami Beach, Vizcaya Museum and Gardens is a great way to simultaneously enjoy the South Florida weather and get your fix of history and culture. Built in 1916 as the winter estate of prominent businessman James Deering, Vizcaya is now a museum offering tours, events and classes.

Wynwood Walls

One of my favorite attractions in Miami, Wynwood Walls is an outdoor street-art museum featuring large-scale works by world-famous artists such as Sheperd Fairy, DANK and Lady Pink on a rotating basis. Adorning the sides of buildings and warehouses, you’ll see a wide variety of mediums and styles. While you are there, check out the Wynwood neighborhood’s trendy bistros and stylish boutiques and galleries.

Road Trip to the Keys

Below Miami-Dade County, the Florida Keys begin–an archipelago of islands connected by 113 miles of the US-1 Highway. If you rented a car and have some time, head South for a fun road trip.

We drove the entire 3.5 hours to Key West, but you can also stop off in other Keys such as Islamorada and Big Pine Key, which offer parks and trails and activities such as snorkeling. Off of Route 1 in Islamorada, you can feed the Tarpon fish at Robbie’s Restaurant, which is apparently a big tourist attraction!

Key West is a vibrant cultural hub at the very tip of the Keys. You can visit the Hemingway House, where Ernest Hemingway wrote several of his most famous works. Fort Zachary Taylor Park is a shaded stretch of beach that features stunning views of the crystal-clear ocean water. And you can catch a glass-bottom boat tour any day of the week to view the tropical fish and fauna without getting wet!

Best places to eat in Miami

For most people who don’t drink, good food is important. I’ve had vacations ruined due to terrible food. Luckily, Miami offers a variety of delicious eats, from posh Michelin-starred restaurants to healthy fast-casual to finger-licking street food. These are some establishments we patronized:

The Front Porch Cafe

Attached to one of the Ocean Drive hotels with a generous outdoor seating area, this restaurant serves a great breakfast.

Limoncello

If you are hankering for Italian, this place is pretty solid, if a bit pricey. The staff are very friendly, and very Italian.

Cafe Americano

With two locations in Miami Beach, Cafe Americano serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Their menu can be fresh and healthy, including Asai bowls and smoothies, or indulgent, like their Quesabirria Tacos. They also serve a variety of mocktails.

During our road trip to the Keys, we ate breakfast at Midway Cafe in Islamorada and thoroughly enjoyed our breakfast sandwich, croissant and avocado toast. In Key West, we hunted down dessert at Rooster Treats, a food truck one block off of Duval Street, close to Southernmost Point. Their fresh, hot mini donuts and ice cream hit the spot.

Best Instagram Spots in Miami

Clockwise from top left: Wynwood Walls, 16th Street lifeguard stand, South Beach, Art deco hotels and Miami Beach sign on Ocean Drive

What is a girls’ trip to Miami without photos to post on Instagram? From the boulevard of Art Deco hotels to the funky-colored lifeguard stands, there is no shortage of opportunities to snap a pic of you and your friends having the time of your lives.

Recovery Meetings in Miami

There are dozens of recovery meetings in Miami, including AA and NA. We decided to check out the SOBE AA Clubhouse in South Beach, not far from our Airbnb. It hosts meetings all day, every day including three every evening at 5:30pm, 7pm and 8:30pm, making it super convenient to fit a recovery meeting into your vacation. Outdoor and beach meetings are also available. Aside from the mid-trip recovery infusion, it’s also a great way to meet locals and learn about things to do and places to eat that you can’t find in Google searches and travel websites.

Saturday night women’s meeting in South Beach

Other things to know

With all of the excitement in planning your sober girls’ getaway, it can be a downer to think about any potential hiccups. Especially during the winter when weather-related flight cancellations and delays frequently occur, friends and family members come down with the flu or you step on a sea urchin while on a snorkeling excursion, it’s always good to have a backup plan. I’ve gotten into the habit of purchasing travelers’ insurance, which not only protects your trip before you go but gives you someone to call if things go awry. AXA Travel Insurance is a reputable company that has covered my last few trips. Peace of mind is priceless.

Don’t wait until the next snowstorm to plan your sober girls’ trip to Miami. After the holidays, nobody likes winter, and you still have three months to go. Start planning now–your friends will thank you!

Puerto Vallarta, Mexico: 10 Things to Know Before You Go

While Puerto Vallarta (“PV”) has a reputation as a party town, sober travelers have nothing to worry about when it comes to enjoying this oceanside resort. There is plenty to do, see and experience that does not revolve around alcohol–and there are plenty of people who live and visit here who do not drink. If you are a first timer planning a trip, check out the following tips on what to expect before heading to this West Coast Mexican city.

1. Where should I stay in Puerto Vallarta?

The Malecon in Centro, Conchas Chinas, and Turtle Camp near the Marina

There is a significant disparity among each of the neighborhoods as far as accessibility to the beach and various sights and attractions, noise levels, and cultural immersion. Here are the neighborhoods you are most likely to stay in, from North to South:

Marina: Adjacent to the airport, this area has several high-end resorts including the Marriott and the Westin, as well as a concentration of shops and restaurants surrounding the eponymous harbor. Comprised mostly of tourists, but also close to the turtle camp.

Hotel Zone: Located equidistant from the Romantic Zone and the Marina, the Hotel Zone is exactly what you would imagine–a phalanx of resorts facing the ocean. It’s ideal for families or couples who plan to stay onsite for the balance of their vacation. However, the area is mostly busy highway and commercial buildings, and nothing is walkable.

5 de Diciembre: Puerto Vallarta’s boardwalk, or Malecon, begins here. The district offers a strong dose of Mexican flavor, with prayer flags, chickens and locals sitting out on their stoops. Not much in the way of hotels, but Airbnbs are fairly cheap here.

Centro/”Gringo Gulch”: The Rio Cuale, which runs from the Sierra Madre Mountains into Banderas Bay, bisects the city of Puerto Vallarta. Three bridges connect Centro to Emiliano Zapata, which makes it a great option for visitors. This is where the iconic Our Lady of Guadalupe Church is located, as well as a large number of really good restaurants, shops and art galleries.

A nickname for this area is “Gringo Gulch”, after the light-skinned residents who settled here in the 1950s and 1960s. The most notable of these would be the Old Hollywood actors Liz Taylor and Richard Burton, who you will hear about on every tour you book in PV.

Emiliano Zapata: Nestled between the Rio Cuale and the Romantic Zone, this area still very much retains its cultural identity, with taco and churro trucks lining the streets, azujelo (tile) and leather shops, and a farmer’s market.

Romantic Zone: The most popular (and expensive) neighborhood, the Romantic Zone runs from Playa los Muertos to Route 200, brimming with popular restaurants, bars, clubs and stores. While it is certainly vibrant, this is probably not the ideal area to stay in if you are sober and want to go to bed at a reasonable hour.

Amapas: My personal favorite, Amapas is located right above the Romantic Zone. Most of the houses and buildings are perched on the side of the hill, giving you spectacular views. It’s a very quiet area in the city, yet you are a five-minute walk to all of the sights and attractions. However, if you don’t like hills and stairs, this location is probably not for you.

Conchas Chinas: Down the road from Amapas is Conchas Chinas, which boasts secluded, serene beaches and breathtaking views of the ocean and the city. Depending on where you stay, it might be a bit of an inconvenience to get downtown. But if you are looking for higher-end accommodations, views and privacy, this is the neighborhood for you.

2. Sober support

Alano Club Puerto Vallarta has been an institution for decades, attracting native Vallartans and expats alike. Everyone is super friendly and welcoming, and often host events, activities and conferences. Virtually all of their meetings are in English, and they host AA, NA and Al-Anon, with specialty groups for men, women and LGBTQ. They recently moved to their new digs at the International Friendship Center, next to the bridge separating Emiliano Zapata and Centro. For more information and a meeting schedule, head to their website.

3. Watch where you step

This is not a place to bring high heels. Wear comfortable shoes, because the sidewalk is uneven, the downtown area has cobblestone streets with lots of random potholes and construction, and there are many, many steps. I’ve seen multiple tourists take a tumble on the street, so be careful!

4. No hablas Espanol? No problema

One of the charms about Puerto Vallarta is that it has retained its Mexican identity to a great extent, with cobblestone streets, prayer flags draped across buildings and a bounty of carts serving up tacos and churros. But the city also caters to its five million annual tourists, so most workers and residents are bilingual. If your Spanish is not great, you can still get by.

View of the nearby town of Mismaloya from a jet ski in Banderas Bay

5. Bring pesos with you

Fewer and fewer establishments are accepting credit cards in Puerto Vallarta. This is especially true in downtown PV and in the surrounding beach towns such as Sayulita, Bocas de Tomatlan and Yelapa. On our most recent trip, none of the restaurants we dined in took credit cards.

I always purchase several hundred dollars’ worth of foreign currency from my bank prior to my travels, for tips and such, but it’s virtually essential when heading to Puerto Vallarta. If you need to take out cash while in Mexico, go to an ATM attached to a bank. They are less likely to be tampered with and will have less expensive fees and better exchange rates.

6. Traffic is no bueno

As more people have discovered PV, more vehicles now clog the already taxed roadways. What used to be a 20-minute trip from the airport to downtown Puerto Vallarta now takes 40-45 minutes. Drivers who were already aggressive and saw traffic rules as merely suggestions did not change their ways. There always seems to be a broken-down truck on the side of the road that worsens congestion, or a random orange barrel placed in the center lane. When looking at a map and calculating how long a trip might take you, add on about 30 minutes, “Mexican time”.

If you choose to rent a car, make sure you go with a well-known, reputable car company like Hertz or Enterprise. They will be less likely to tack on random charges or “insurance” that doubles the amount you pay, or scam you for hundreds of dollars when they find small scratches on your car.

To avoid having to deal with traffic, stay in a central area such as the Romantic Zone or Amapas, book tours that include transportation to places out of town, and use Uber when you don’t feel like walking up hills anymore. Viator.com is my go-to when booking tours in any country, and Adventures Vallarta is an excellent local company with fun excursions in Puerto Vallarta and beyond. Tours are great way to discover and enjoy the sights in and around the city, while leaving the driving to a local who is more accustomed to the roads, traffic patterns and driver tendencies.

7. It’s super safe in Puerto Vallarta

Traffic headaches aside, Puerto Vallarta is very safe. As a female traveler, there have been destinations where I have felt uncomfortable. Puerto Vallarta is not one of those. Wandering around town by myself, whether it’s early in the morning, in broad daylight or late in the evening, no one bothers me and I feel perfectly safe. In fact, most folks on the street will give you a smile and a “Buenas dias!”

Like any city, you might encounter the occasional petty crime or scam, but as long as you take precautions and have your wits about you, most travelers have nothing to worry about. Officially, Puerto Vallarta’s crime rate is 38/100. By comparison, Maui and Miami are 58/100. More than anything, you should worry about the random potholes in the sidewalk. Or sea urchins.

8. The food in Puerto Vallarta is incredible–except on the Malecon

It’s an unwritten rule that the closer you get to the Malecon, the worse the food is. The cuisine lining the mile-long boardwalk adjacent to the beach consists mainly of mediocre seafood and soupy Caesar salads. Because you have a beautiful view in a prime location, restaurants can charge a premium and serve sub-par food while being confident that customers will still keep coming.

Check out any of the restaurants or taco stands a few blocks back, and there are a multitude of tasty options, offering everything from traditional Mexican fare to healthy organic eats, to brunch, to Italian.

Head over to this Sober Travel Advice post to find out the best (and worst) foods we’ve eaten while traveling!

9. Puerto Vallarta is a gay mecca

If you are looking for an inclusive destination, Puerto Vallarta fits the bill. Gay and lesbian couples and friend groups travel from all over North America and beyond to let loose in an open and welcoming environment. Walking down the street you might pass more gay couples than straight, particularly in the Romantic Zone and Olas Altas.

10. Spas in Puerto Vallarta

Walking down the street in Puerto Vallarta, there seems to be multiple spas on every block. However, there is a BIG difference between a spa that operates with trained massage therapists, cosmetologists and estheticians and one that, well, doesn’t. I’ve experienced some terrible pedicures and criminally unsatisfying massages after walking into a random spa in PV without doing my homework.

You could check out your hotel’s spa, although they tend to be expensive–as in, 2-3 times as much as a local spa. I am a huge fan of Metamorfosis Day Spa in Amapas, which I’ve patronized the last four times I’ve visited Puerto Vallarta. The facility itself is bright and Zen, with friendly staff and therapists who give an excellent 90-minute full-body massage for $60. Mantra Spa in Centro is also clean and inviting, and their therapists do a great deep tissue massage for 700 pesos an hour.

I hope these tips have helped you feel more confident in knowing what to expect when traveling to this beautiful city on the Mexican Pacific Coast. For a comprehensive overview on how to get around, where to eat and what to do, head over to my Puerto Vallarta travel guide.

Sober Weekend Getaway: 5 Best Places to Visit in New England

Since the early days of the republic, well-heeled Americans have decamped to the shores and mountains of New England to escape the summer heat. Places like Newport, Rhode Island feature Gilded Age mansions that were once the summer “cottages” of families such as the Vanderbilts and Astors. These days, New England summer getaways are much more accessible to those looking to cool off over a long weekend. The good news for sober travelers is that these destinations offer so much in the way of outdoor activities, shows, events, festivals, and amazing gastronomic scenes that alcohol is an afterthought. Read on to find the best New England vacation spots for a sober weekend getaway.

Boston, MA

Boston is rich in colonial and revolutionary history but has a youthful population, with more than 60 institutions of higher learning within its metro area, including the prestigious Harvard University and MIT. The city proper is compact and walk-able, with interesting architecture and historical landmarks. It also contains a vast amount of green space, including the miles-long trail along the Charles River as well as Boston Common, a lush city park that often hosts festivals and concerts.

One of the most fun things you can do in Boston is take a boat tour down the Charles. Accompanied by a cool breeze coming off the river, this narrated cruise runs about an hour and provides you with interesting insight into the city. Catch a Red Sox game at the hallowed Fenway ballpark or grab a bite at one of the vendors in Fanueil Hall, and enjoy Boston at its best time of year.

Where to Stay: Revere Hotel Boston Common

This hotel has a luxury feel and stunning city views from most of its rooms. Ideal location for anyone looking to explore Boston on foot or use the city’s public transportation system (the “T”) for the duration of their stay.

What to Eat: The Friendly Toast

A hip breakfast and brunch chain based in Massachusetts, The Friendly Toast almost always has a line for dining in. They offer delicious options both sweet and savory, indulgent and health-conscious.

Don’t Miss: Improv Asylum

Any time I make a trip to Boston, I book tickets to Improv Asylum, a comedy club in the North End with a consistently talented cast and fun, hilarious shows.

Portland, ME

The largest city in Maine with half a million residents, seaside Portland has a decidedly maritime feel, with yachts, boats and ferries flitting around Casco Bay and lighthouses dotting the coast. And like most destinations in Maine, you are granted a little more elbow room than in the rest of the densely populated Northeast. Even in districts like the touristy Commercial Street, the city still emanates a laid-back vibe.

Renting bikes is a fun way to see what Portland has to offer (we used Gorham Bike & Ski on Congress Street). While there are several well-traveled routes of 40 and 60 miles for more ambitious bikers, there is also a scenic, pleasant loop that meanders past several light houses and forts along Portland’s southern coast, which will take you an afternoon.

Where to Stay: Hampton Inn Portland Downtown-Waterfront

Great location close to the harbor, shopping and restaurants, nice accommodations and a decent price.

What to Eat: Tandem Coffee

Delicious coffee and an egg and cheese breakfast sandwich that is a revelation.

Don’t Miss: Peaks Island

Take the 20-minute ferry ride to a community that feels a world away from the city. There are approximately 3 cars on the island and a general store. Enjoy the adorable colonial and Cape Cod-style houses and quiet, rocky beaches. Rent a golf cart to ride around the 740-acre island and drink in the views.

Lake Placid, NY

Nestled in upstate New York’s Adirondack Mountains, the sleepy hamlet of Lake Placid is a destination for travelers seeking fresh, mountain air. It’s claim to fame is that it has hosted not one, but two Olympics over the past century, and more recently was featured in an episode of Succession (Season One, when the Roy family attended a conference modeled after the Aspen Ideas Festival).

In addition to water sports like kayaking, swimming and stand-up paddle boarding on Mirror Lake, there are nearby hiking spots for various levels of conditioning and experience, such as Balanced Rocks and Whiteface Landing.

Where to Stay: Crowne Plaza Lake Placid

The most quintessentially Lake Placid hotel, with a large stone hearth and vaulted wood-paneled ceilings in its lobby, Crowne Plaza Lake Placid is perched above Main Street, its soaring A-frame windows providing guests a stunning panorama of Mirror Lake.

What to Eat: Generations

This restaurant is attached to Golden Arrow Resort off Main Street and is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It also features nice views of the lake. If you are in the mood for upscale bar food, Generations is the place to go!

Don’t Miss: High Falls Gorge

A 10-minute drive from downtown Lake Placid, this nature park features several miles of trails, including boardwalks and bridges over impressive waterfalls.

Cape Cod, MA

View from PIlgrim Monument in Provincetown

Jutting out into the Atlantic Ocean from mainland Massachusetts, Cape Cod is the embodiment of everything New England: cedar shake houses, quaint villages, seafood shacks and an abundance of light houses. The peninsula includes miles of sandy beaches as well as ample opportunity for boating and fishing.

Towns such as Hyannis and Provincetown offer shopping, art galleries and high-end dining, while places like Eastham and Wellfleet on the Outer Cape offer more relaxed vibes. If you have extra time (and lots of extra money), consider taking a ferry and staying in Nantucket or Martha’s Vineyard, the two islands off the coast of Cape Cod known to be the playground of the wealthy. Both boast stunning coastal scenery, beautiful homes and delicious food.

Where to Stay: Green Harbor Resort

On the shores of Lewis Bay in Yarmouth, Green Harbor Resort offers spacious suites steps away from a private beach. Other amenities include a pool, mini-golf course and bike rentals.

What to Eat: Jimmy’s Hideaway

American restaurant with a plethora of seafood dishes like surf and turf, fish and chips, and lobster carbonara (make sure you bring a defibrillator). Located in the heart of Provincetown.

Don’t Miss: Provincetown

Known as a gay mecca and artist haven, bustling Provincetown offers art galleries, specialty shops, restaurants and nightlife. Pilgrim Monument & Museum, commemorating the Mayflower landing, is within walking distance of Commercial Street.

Newport, RI

One of the famous Gilded Age Newport mansions

Newport’s charming, winding streets, historical landmarks and well-preserved colonial housing stock reflect its storied past. Founded as one of the earliest US settlements in 1639, the Rhode Island town has deep significance as a key trading port in the 17th and 18th centuries, and then as the summer home of some of the most prominent and influential Americans of the 19th and 20th centuries, including the Kennedys, Dukes and Astors. Today, Newport still attracts affluent vacationers, as evidenced by the astronomical hotel and resort prices from May to October and the inordinate number of yachts in the harbor.

Even if you aren’t from an old-money New York family, you can still enjoy Newport’s natural and architectural beauty, take a tour of the Newport mansions and avail yourself of the town’s phenomenal dining options. Also check out seasonal events such as the Newport Folk Festival and Newport Jazz Festival, and attractions such as the Save the Bay Exploration Center and Aquarium.

Where to Stay: Newport Marriott Hotel & Spa

I never regret staying at a Marriott. While pricey, it’s location in Newport is ideal and it includes amenities such as a killer gym.

What to Eat: The Mooring Seafood Kitchen & Bar

You obviously must eat seafood when you are in Newport. The Mooring is a lively Newport establishment with outdoor seating and enticing dishes including lobster-shrimp fritters, whole-roasted fish and seared scallops.

Don’t Miss: The Cliff Walk

On the outskirts of Newport’s downtown is the Cliff Walk, a 3.5-mile trail that winds past wildlife, beaches, and the famous mansions, all the while providing impressive water views.

Looking for more last-minute summer getaway ideas? Check out our sober travel destinations page!

Santorini, Greece

Planning a Trip to Santorini

One of Greece’s most popular islands is becoming even more so, thanks to social media. Those made-for-Instagram images of Santorini’s white-washed buildings and blue-domed churches attract millions of tourists every year from all over the world. While the scenery and sunsets are stunning, the island offers so much more, including hiking, shopping, great food and fascinating history.

Santorini, also known as Thira, is one of the 220 Cyclades Islands located in the Aegean Sea that also includes Mykonos, Milos and Naxos. An hour plane ride or 5-hour ferry ride from Athens, Santorini features a unique topography, with its principal towns Fira and Oia clinging to high cliffs overlooking a deep caldera, which was formed during a catastrophic volcanic explosion 3,600 years ago. Its igneous past is still apparent if you visit the sulfurous hot springs on Nea Kameni (New Burn Island), or Thirassia, the inhabited but sleepy island which was formed during the eruption, both of which are part of the Santorini complex.

Due to its popularity among affluent tourists, Santorini is expensive. There’s no way of getting around it. If you want an enjoyable and comfortable vacation with minimal inconveniences, you will have to pay for it. However, every extra dollar I spent in Santorini, I did not regret. It enabled me to truly appreciate my beautiful surroundings, delicious food and interactions with people without getting bogged down as a result of irritation or discomfort.

A church in Imerovigli, one of the towns perched along the caldera

Like most Mediterranean countries, Greece has a proud wine culture, and vineyards dot the landscape across the island of Santorini. Morning drinking is also a thing here: I watched a couple nonchalantly order craft beers at a restaurant at 10:30 am as I ate my omelet at the next table. And servers are likely to hand you a shot of “dessert wine” at the end of your dinner, regardless of whether you drank during it. As a non-drinker, it’s best to be aware of these situations that might arise, and continue reading to learn about all of the fun things to do in Santorini that don’t involve alcohol!

How to Get to Santorini

Santorini can be accessed by boat or by plane from mainland Greece. There are also direct flights from select cities in Europe. I chose the high-speed ferry for both legs of my trip, since I was staying in Athens before and after and the airport is an hour away from downtown Athens. However, if I had been going directly to Santorini, I would have chosen to fly. The flight from Athens to Santorini is less than an hour, and the Santorini airport is a 30-minute shuttle ride from Fira. Based on my experience with the return ferry and the Santorini ferry port, Athinios, I should have arrived via ferry and returned by plane.

I used Ferryscanner to book my ferry to and from Santorini. I paid about $200 for round-trip tickets on the high-speed line SeaJets. There are slower, cheaper ferries but I didn’t want to spend 8 hours en route. My trip to Santorini was easy. I took an inexpensive train ride from downtown Athens to Pireas Port, walked to my gate an hour before departure, and hopped on the ferry. Dropping off your luggage is a bit of a cluster, so if you can bring your stuff with you, you won’t be paranoid about losing it. The SeaJet was spacious and comfortable in the economy area, with tables that enabled you to spread out. The World Champion Jet they stuck us on during the return trip was a different story. Everyone was squished into airplane-style rows facing one direction, with zero space to put a backpack or small suitcase.

While Pireas Port was generally orderly, Athinios Port in Santorini was a nightmare. You would think because it’s smaller the logistics would be easier, but it’s a total mess. There is no signage or any indication of where to queue, which made some people in line vociferously angry. The sun beating down on all of us didn’t help, and there was limited room in the covered ferry terminal to escape the heat. If you take the ferry to Santorini, I suggest taking a flight back.

One other thing to note about the ferry: to use WiFi during your voyage, you must go to the bar/cafe right after you board to buy a WiFi voucher. They are limited and run out quickly. I didn’t realize that not everyone gets a voucher and found out the hard way.

Getting Around in Santorini

I don’t recommend renting a car in Santorini. Streets are narrow, cobble-stoned, often one way and filled with milling tourists, as well as aggressively driven trucks, scooters and four-wheelers. There are also quite a few roads with hairpin turns and steep drop-offs. I would also avoid renting a scooter or four-wheeler for the same reasons. They are meant for residents who are familiar with the rules of the road and tendencies of other drivers on the island.

The public transportation is good enough that you can get to most places cheaply and conveniently. Buses run frequently (every 20-30 minutes) to most of the towns and attractions on the island. The coaches are very comfortable (they are basically tour buses) with air conditioning. Arrive early to make sure you get a seat, otherwise you will probably be standing the whole ride. Usually you will pay on the bus or pay the attendant outside the bus before you board, cash only. Bus schedules are posted online or at the bus station, and the buses usually advertise the route with a sign in the windshield. I was able to get everywhere I wanted to go in Santorini for about 2 Euro a trip by using the bus.

For the busier, more time-sensitive buses, you should arrive 25 minutes early because the seats fill up quickly. My bus to Athinios Port left 10 minutes before the scheduled departure time because we were already full. They also don’t have a great communication system. If the bus doesn’t have a sign in the windshield naming the route, like Fira-Oia, you are running from one bus to the next asking the driver what route it is. There is also a less-than-optimal system for queuing, so you have to jostle your way to the door. Despite this, it’s better than the headache of driving yourself or taking an expensive taxi that will take you just as long to hail.

Where to Stay

Hotels with a pool along the caldera are expensive but worth it

First-timers and those who value convenience should stay in Fira, the capital of Santorini. It is centrally located to most points of interest on the island, and all of the buses stop in Fira before moving on to other towns. While Oia tends to get most of the attention, Fira is beautiful and interesting in its own right. It’s also slightly cheaper and less crowded than Oia but with more restaurants, shops and things to do than some of the other towns such as the quaint Firostefani or the seaside Perissa.

I stayed in Mirto’s Studios in downtown Fira, on a quiet side street but steps away from all the action. On my Booking.com review I gave them a 10/10. The apartment and balcony were spacious, beautiful and comfortable, and the hosts were friendly and attentive. I paid $1,100 for four nights during high season, but could not have asked for a better place for the money. However, there were times, especially when I was schlepping around in the heat, that I wished I had dropped $450/night on a hotel with a caldera view and a pool. Since the closest beach is 20 minutes away, the higher-end hotels offer pools so their guests can cool off. Most of them can be seen from the path along the caldera, and I had a strong desire to cliff-jump into them. While I loved my rental, I made a mistake not getting a place with a pool!

Oia, the most beautiful (and expensive) town in Santorini

Fun Things to Do in Santorini

Island Tour

As always, I used Viator to book a tour for my first full day, to get my bearings, hit the essentials, and ask questions of my tour guides. The Santorini Sightseeing Half-Day Tour was a small-group excursion around the island, with stops in Oia, Firostefani, and Megalochori. It was fun and easy, and the tour guides were a trove of knowledge about the history, culture and current state of Santorini.

Caldera Hike

The caldera hike is a must for anyone who enjoys the outdoors and breathtaking scenery. It is a 6-mile trek from Fira to Oia, through several towns, past resorts and churches and up and down several strenuous hills. And always with a view: the towns emerge and then trail off in the distance and the deep blue water of the Aegean constantly sparkles beneath the stratified rock formations. If you go early in the morning, you’ll experience a magical peace as you wind through the quiet streets of Fira, Imerogivli and Firostefani, as the sky changes from purple to pink to blue.

The trail itself is not really marked, save for a few hand-written signs. Just take the pathway closest to the caldera and keep walking. If you are heading out from Fira, you will hit Imerovigli after 10-15 minutes.

If you are hiking in the summer, you should start before 8 am. The sun is strong and there are long stretches where you will be completely exposed. I had considered heading out in the late afternoon with the intention of arriving in Oia by sunset, until I realized that the sun is relentless until it finally sinks behind the horizon. Not to mention the crowds in Oia prior to sunset resemble Woodstock ’99.

Pack water and a snack, as the route will take you about 3 hours to complete. With no stops, my hike took 2 hours 45 minutes. I made the mistake of not bringing any food with me and started feeling a little woozy before a Spanish guy selling fruit out of his car next to the trail handed me a few cherries. When I arrived in Oia, I annihilated a giant piece of baklava with ice cream and it was the most glorious thing I’ve ever tasted after that long, sweaty hike.

Boat Tour

When you are on a Greek island, a boat tour is obligatory. I joined the Caldera Half-day Tour, which was an excellent value for the money. While there were 70 other souls on the boat, it was comprehensive and well-organized. We docked first at Nea Kameni, and hiked to the top of the uninhabited volcanic outcropping in the middle of the caldera. The views at the top of Fira, Oia and Thirassia were impressive. Next, we headed to the hot springs for a quick dip before heading to Thirassia. They told us that Thirassia is what Santorini used to be. When I trudged up the steep incline to the tiny hamlet where the 300 residents supposedly live, I saw more cats than people. However, the panoramic views were spectacular. Along the water front, there is an assembly of bustling restaurants and cafes. However, it’s not worth a day trip.

Perissa Beach

Santorini is not known for its beaches, but it does in fact have them. Kamari and Perissa are located in the South of the island, 20-30 minutes from Fira and Oia. Perissa is a black sand beach and is considered the better of the two. During the summer months, it’s fairly crowded but you can find spots on the sand (it’s hot so not recommended) or on the lounge chairs (some restaurants own them to make sure you sit in the ones that are considered public so no one hassles you). The water is clear and very refreshing, and the waves are typically lapping and gentle.

Explore Oia and Fira

As previously mentioned, Fira and Oia are the two main towns on Santorini, and the ones that attract the most tourists. While some of the smaller, quieter towns like Megalochori are worth visiting, Fira and Oia are popular for good reason. Winding pedestrian-only streets lined with shops and restaurants give way to stunning views of the sea, juxtaposed with stark white buildings and sheer cliffs. Both towns are admired for their otherworldly sunsets.

Because these towns are so Instagrammable, there is an entire industry that’s popped up in Santorini to capitalize on people’s desire to garner likes. In addition to booking a traditional photo shoot, you can also pay 400 Euro for a “flying dress photo shoot”, where you rent a shiny dress with a ridiculously long train that flutters in the island breeze. I witnessed about 10 of these “flying dress” shoots taking place during my time in Santorini.

Enjoy the Sunset

Every sunset in Santorini is appointment viewing, especially in the towns perched along the caldera. Throngs of people cram into restaurant terraces and onto the cliff walks, jockeying for the best spot to watch the sun bathe the white-washed churches, windmills and other buildings in a warm, golden glow and then sink behind the horizon. It’s truly unlike any sunset you will ever see.

Best Food in Santorini

Although Santorini spans only 60 square miles, it sustains 2,000 food businesses. Overall, I give its food scene an 8/10. Most of the meals, snacks and desserts I consumed were delicious, with a few misses.

I was excited to try traditional Greek food, which Santorini has in spades. The fried zucchini with yogurt dill sauce I had as an appetizer at Tholoto was excellent, although their sea bass main dish was so salty it was like gulping ocean water. I also tried feta saganaki for the first time at Veranda Restaurant in Fira. It was probably my favorite new food: fried warm feta coated with honey and sesame, and it was divine. Veranda is also where I had the best main course of my entire trip, a slow-cooked lamb dish with vegetables and spices, topped with cheese. The restaurant is tucked into one of the pedestrian walkways close to the Catholic church, and as its name implies, has a nice outdoor patio.

For a quick, cheap lunch, Falafelland is ideal. After hopping off the bus at the central station in Fira, I grabbed a falafel wrap from the fast-casual restaurant around the corner. It was fresh, healthy and portable, a satisfying nosh after a long morning of travel.

Although I found it to be a little overrated, you must eat at a restaurant with a caldera view at least once while in Santorini. I dined at Volcano Blue in Fira, where I had traditional tomato fritters with fava sauce and a seafood pasta dish. I reserved a table for 7 pm, nearly two hours before sunset, and I had the restaurant to myself. I soon realized why, because the sun beat down on me relentlessly. While the view was fantastic, I was pretty uncomfortable. If you want the best experience, you should make a reservation a half-hour prior to sunset.

A food highlight was definitely the desserts. The first night in Santorini, I wanted dessert for dinner and I settled on a crepe from Creme de la Crepe, located in downtown Fira in a pedestrian alleyway. My go-to crepe is Nutella, bananas, strawberries and nuts, and they executed to perfection.

Some of the best baklava in Fira can be found at Svornos, a 24-hour bakery and cafe off the main drag. They offer a plethora of other pastries, breads and sweets, as well as some pretty good coffee.

Walking around Santorini in the summer, everyone has a dish or cone of gelato in their hand. For some of the best on the island, head to Solo Gelato on the main square in Fira. I had the flavor inspired by the Kinder Bueno candy bar and it was delightful.

After my dusty, hot caldera hike, I made a beeline to Lotza in Oia, where I had heard they served baklava with ice cream. Not only do they give you a giant hunk of flaky, sweet baklava with a scoop of vanilla gelato, but it comes with a sweeping caldera view. I’m pretty sure that’s what heaven is like.

Running in Santorini

Considering Santorini’s rugged terrain and cramped quarters, I did not expect to be able to run on the island. However, on my hike from Fira to Oia, I saw quite a few runners along the paved trail that wound through the towns. Same as with the hike, you need to start early in order to avoid bumping into groups of puttering tourists. On my last morning in Santorini, I got up at 6 am and ran halfway to Oia and back, which took about 65 minutes. The midway point is the first large hill with a church and Greek flag at the top. It was quiet and calm and beautiful, but once I returned to Fira, the streets were waking up.

Other Things to Know

Dress Code: Santorini is not a “beachy” place. No one walks around in flip-flops and T-shirts. In fact, everyone dresses to the nines. You gotta make sure you look good for those Instagram photos!

Weather: As an island in the middle of the Aegean Sea, the weather is cooler than on the mainland–in the summer, mercifully so. It’s also windy at times. On days when wind is forecast, it’s best to not wear a dress, and to bring a hat with a strap or string so it doesn’t fly away.

Sober Warning: Restaurants in Santorini are big on giving you “dessert wine”. Even though I did not drink at all during any of my meals, the servers presented me with a shot of wine with the check at two of the restaurants I dined in. It doesn’t occur to anyone that you might not be a drinker. So be careful!

Monster Donkeys: The donkeys are huge and terrifying. Not to mention smelly. You will encounter them on the streets in Fira as well as on the steps descending into the Old Port. They are usually hauling tourists and take up the entire tiny passage, so you have to jump into a doorway to avoid being trampled. Also, be mindful of the donkey poop.

Old Port Lowdown: On a similar note, don’t bother going to the Old Port. There’s not much down there, so unless you have a tour departure, it’s not worth paying 6 Euro and waiting in a long line for the cable car, or trekking 25 minutes up and down stairs caked with donkey poop in the hot sun.

Recovery Meetings

While there are English-speaking meetings in Athens and on other Greek islands like Crete and Corfu, there are none on Santorini. Instead, I logged into a Zoom meeting from my hotel room. If you are planning to travel to other islands, or you plan to stay in Athens at some point, check here for information about English-speaking meetings.

Athens, Greece

Planning a Trip to Greece

Known around the world as the cradle of democracy, inspiring art, architecture, ideas and culture from the Renaissance to the Olympics to college fraternities, Athens is a city defined by its history. The Acropolis sits perched on a massive granite hill above the modern, low-slung buildings now common in the city. Wandering around the Ancient Agora and the neighborhoods at the foot of the Acropolis, the Parthenon, Temple of Athena Nike and other famous structures are constantly in sight, inspiring a sense of wonder and awe. Even after several millennia, multiple invasions, and continuous looting, it’s still impressive, spurring thoughts of what it must have been like during its heyday 2,500 years ago, when Athens was a mighty Greek city-state.

I had heard mixed reviews of Athens, so I was prepared not to like it. In fact, I found it vibrant and interesting. Besides the designated cultural sites and museums, you will stumble across ancient foundations, pillars and other artifacts as you roam around the city. For instance, there are ruins on both sides of the train tracks between Thisso Station and Monastiraki Square, and you’ll see cordoned-off areas and plaques next to a parking lot, or between apartment buildings, identifying various old churches or monuments. While it appeared that city officials had given up on graffiti remediation, it was kind of charming when juxtaposed with the stately buildings, cobble-stoned streets and creamy granite that comprised the downtown area.

The neighborhoods skirting the Acropolis are filled with young people, buskers, restaurants, shops and vendors, and are relatively clean and safe. I took this trip by myself and I never felt uncomfortable as a woman traveling alone. Depending on how you travel, it can also be less expensive than other cities in Europe. I took the train everywhere and grabbed most of my meals from the ubiquitous cafes and coffee shops, and got away with spending less than $25 per day. You can easily drop much more than that taking taxis and eating out at fancy restaurants, but there is really no need.

Like most Mediterranean countries, Greece has a strong wine culture. But also like most Mediterranean countries, there is plenty to see and do besides drink. Spending a few days in Athens, you will fill your day with sightseeing and exploration, capping each night with an al fresco dinner taking in views of the Acropolis reflecting the setting sun.

Here is my step-by-step guide to planning a perfect sober vacation!

Getting Around in Athens

Pretty much everyone uses public transportation in Athens, despite (or because of) the overwhelming number of cars and bumper to bumper traffic. Besides the taxi I reserved on Booking.com to and from the airport, I used the Athens Metro system to get around. It includes trains, buses and trams and runs from 5 am until midnight, connecting to most major points of interest. I took the train to get to the National Archaeological Museum, the Parthenon Group of AA and the Pireaus Ferry Port. Each trip cost about 2 Euro, the trains were on time and relatively clean, save for the graffiti which covers every square inch of the city. Tickets are purchased with a credit card from the machines located at each station.

Where to Stay in Athens

The cluster of neighborhoods encircling the Acropolis are the most convenient to attractions and transportation and offer the best array of restaurants and shops. These districts include Plaka, Monastiraki, Syntagma, Thissio, Psiri, and Koukaki, and can all be easily reached on foot no matter where you stay, so you don’t have to worry about missing out on any of them. Monastiraki and Thissio both have centrally located train stations, so you might want to stay in those areas if you plan to use public transport. Thissio is next to the walking trail that winds around the Acropolis, which is also lined with restaurants, and is a 20 minute trek to the Acropolis Museum. Monastiraki is more lively, with its eponymous square, Ermou Street for shopping and access to the Plaka neighborhood’s nightlife.

Apeiron Acropolis Suites is a complex of apartments tucked into a quiet side street, but close to all of the action and steps from the Thissio station. The place was lovely and clean and the hosts were very friendly, providing me with recommendations for things to do and places to eat. Royalty Hotel Athens was located at the cross section of Ermou Street, a half-block from Monastiraki Square. It had nice, modern rooms, a perfect location and a delicious breakfast. For both the apartment and hotel, I used my go-to, Booking.com, and spent extra to secure the best-reviewed accommodations. Over the past few years, any time I try to save a few bucks on a hotel or rental I’ve regretted it, and I don’t need that negativity in my life.

Looking for other ideas on where to stay? Check out this post from Places of Juma on places to stay in Athens!

Fun Things to do in Athens

If you visit in the summer, you will want to limit your time outdoors because it is not unusual for temperatures to top 100 degrees. If you are planning any activities like running, walking, or touring the Acropolis, you will want to finish up before 10 am. Definitely do not do the hop-on, hop-off bus tour because you will either melt in the direct sun on top of the bus or be crammed inside the bus with all the other tourists. I planned my museum trips for the middle of the day to beat the heat, and booked an early morning tour of the Acropolis. If I ever return to Athens, I will probably do a May or October trip, when the crowds are fewer and the temperatures are more moderate.

Explore the Agora

While they are naturally close in proximity, the Agora and the Acropolis are two separate entities. When the Greeks first constructed the Agora, it was used as a community hub, with markets and meeting spaces. For 10 Euro, you can explore the Ancient Agora and walk through the same streets that members of this advanced society did thousands of years ago. I arrived as the doors opened at 8 am, when the sun was still rising and there were only a handful of visitors. It was spellbinding. The Ancient Agora contains several well-preserved buildings such as the Temple of Hephaestus, as well as teams of archaeologists milling around, uncovering artifacts to this day.

If you walk up the hill outside of the fence that encapsulates the ruins of the Ancient Agora, you’ll encounter narrow, winding streets and charming little homes (and stray kitties). Walk a little further and you’ll find a large rock with stairs leading up to the top, where you’ll experience panoramic views of both the Acropolis and the expansive city of more than 5 million people.

Book a Tour of the Acropolis

I used TripAdvisor to book the Acropolis and Acropolis Museum Tour. The small group tour included tickets to both attractions, and the tour guide provided history and context that I wouldn’t have gotten otherwise. While the Agora was for the community and the citizens of Athens, the Acropolis was a place of worship, which is why so many temples were built at the top of the hill. The various monuments are even more impressive up close, and it was astounding to me that the ancient Greeks constructed buildings so massive, expertly designed and aesthetically beautiful. If you tour between the months of May and October, make sure to pack your patience because there will be crowds, and it will be hot. However, that is not a reason to miss this once-in-a-lifetime experience!

Check out the Museums

Athens is home to several well-regarded museums, which offer a multitude of interesting exhibits on prehistoric and ancient Greece and Athens. They are also air-conditioned, so it’s a nice afternoon activity on hot days. The National Archaeological Museum costs 12 Euro for access to their collections of jewelry, vases, weapons, and other artifacts. The Acropolis Museum is the pride and joy of Athens. The government spent millions of dollars during their economic crisis 15 years ago to build their answer to the British Museum in London. The shiny new structure is dedicated to all things Acropolis, housing many artifacts taken and preserved from the top of the “holy rock”. On the lower floor outside, visitors can view outlines of stone houses, businesses and other buildings that encompass the Agora.

Explore the Neighborhoods

Most of the shopping, restaurants and attractions are located in the vicinity of the Agora and Acropolis. These neighborhoods are fun to explore, with random side streets that connect to each other and occasionally lead to an ancient church or a shopping corridor strung with lights. I avoided Psyrri, the district known for its nightlife, for obvious reasons. After checking out the National Archaeological Museum, I wandered around Exarchia, which was definitely the grittiest of the neighborhoods I visited. Graffiti covered every available inch of wall and art supply and record stores were on every block. It was not nearly as busy as where I had come from and sometimes I was the only person walking down the street, which was a little unnerving.

A word of caution: years and years of foot traffic have worn down the granite stairs and cobble-stone streets, so it is advised that you wear shoes with good traction when walking around the city. I wobbled a few times myself when traversing the streets in my sandals, and switched to sneakers for my hike up the Acropolis.

Running

Morning run while the sun isn’t yet blazing

The promenade that winds up the Acropolis, as well as the adjacent tree-covered Filapappou Hill and Overlook, offer a scenic route that stretches for a few miles. As previously mentioned, it’s best to get out early not only to avoid the heat, but also the flocks of tourists that descend upon the area when the attractions open at 8 am. It’s really very pleasant to take in the various sights without having to dodge crowds and traffic.

Food in Athens

As you would expect, the culinary scene in Athens is dominated by kebabs, feta, yogurt, and fresh vegetables such as cucumbers and zucchini. Coffee shops with various pastries are plentiful. They also have a substantially high ratio of gelato shops to humans–I even saw people eating it for breakfast. I guess that’s what you do when it’s 97 degrees out.

If you steer clear of the fancy restaurants, food is incredibly cheap here. Most mornings I grabbed a hand pie such as spinach and feta spanakopita and a cup of coffee for 4 Euro, and it stayed with me until mid-afternoon. One evening I bought a salad, a slice of pizza and a soda that cost me less than 7 Euro.

On my last night in Athens, I decided to treat myself to a nice dinner and went to Theta, located next to the Ancient Agora with a stunning view of the Acropolis. The food and service were excellent. I tried their tasty fried zucchini balls with yogurt dill sauce, and their shrimp risotto was perfect.

If you do decide to dine out at a restaurant, tipping is optional but 10-15% is common. I tipped 20%+ on my meals (and my tours and taxi rides). The folks who work in tourism in Greece don’t make much money, and are often taken advantage of. For instance, my taxi driver, a 22-year old college grad, told me he only makes 9 Euro per trip regardless of how far he drives or how long it takes.

Recovery Meetings in Athens

The Parthenon Group holds three English-speaking meetings a week: Wednesdays and Fridays at 7pm and Sundays at 1pm. It’s a well-attended group with a mix of expats and travelers. The clubhouse is located near Pedion Areos and Strefis Hill. If you take the train, get off at Victoria Station and plug the address into Google Maps. It’s about a 10 minute walk from the station and it’s tucked into a side street. There are other English-speaking meetings in the area but this one is the easiest to get to if you are staying near the Acropolis.

If you are interested in a vacation with history and culture like Athens, check out our destination guides on Istanbul and Portugal!

Mocktails, Zero Proof Wine & Near Beer: The Alcohol-Free Drink Trend is on the Rise

Dry January. Sober-curious. Mocktails. These terms all came into fashion over the course of the pandemic, as problem drinking and mental health issues surged and people sought ways to become more conscious of their health and wellness, which included limiting or abstaining from alcohol. As someone who has been clean and sober for more than 16 years in a world that has always seemed preoccupied with drinking, I am cautiously optimistic of this new trend. For eons, beverage options for non-drinkers were limited to soda, water, coffee or tea. Maybe there will finally be more and better alcohol alternatives on cruises, tours and restaurants for folks like us who prefer not to imbibe. Instead of always being relegated to nursing a watery Diet Coke while everyone else on a sunset catamaran cruise is sampling flights of wine, sober travelers like us will have an array of flavorful, interesting, non-alcoholic libations to enjoy.

So who is hopping on the zero-proof bandwagon? What kind of products are out there and who is serving them? Is this just a fad or does it have staying power? And if someone is in recovery or has a problem with alcohol, are these beverages safe to drink? Read on to find out!

Zero-Proof Drinks: A Global Movement

At the end of 2022, Forbes reported that the nonalcoholic beverage industry had reached $11 billion in worldwide sales, up from $8 billion in 2018, reflecting the recent trend of more conscious drinking and temporary or permanent abstinence. Industry experts expect this number to grow through 2026.

We’ve come a long way from O’Douls, in terms of the quality and variety of alcohol-free drink options. Nielsen IQ noted that between mid-July of 2021 and 2022, “72 new non-alcoholic drink SKUs were introduced to the US market: 37 were non-alcoholic beer, 17 non-alcoholic wine, and 18 non-alcoholic spirits.” Beverages and brands run the gamut from zero-proof spirits like Ritual and Seed Lip, to non-alcoholic wine, beer, and champagne, to mocktails such as Virgin Mojitos and Cuddle on the Beach.

Due to the growing demand for low and no-alcohol beverage options, bars, bottle shops and even cruises are jumping into the fray. According to a January Forbes article, there are more than 50 zero-proof bottle shops around the country, up from only a handful a few years ago. Alcohol-free bars and speak-easys have popped up in cities like New York and Chicago. Travel and Leisure recently reported that eight cruise lines now offer packages and/or menus for non-drinkers, including Celebrity Cruises, Princess Cruises and MSC Cruises. For example, Celebrity offers a zero-proof package for $30 per day (plus 20% service charge) that includes fresh juices, frozen smoothies, and specialty coffees and teas. Compare this to their traditional drink package at nearly $90 per day.

While this progress is exciting for non-drinkers, there are some caveats. The agency IWSR, which tracks trends in the global beverage industry, finds that most consumers like to switch between alcohol and non (or low) — 78% of millenials who buy no- or low-alcohol products also drink standard alcohol. Abstainers account for 18% of no- and low-alcohol consumers in that age bracket. So the industry will continue to serve the drinking sector, which brings with it some issues for those who are trying to maintain sobriety.

Can I have zero-proof drinks if I am in recovery?

Since most consumers of non-alcoholic beverages are regular drinkers who are not in recovery, the zero-proof industry primarily caters to those consumers. People with a history of substance abuse must proceed with caution, because up until this point there hasn’t been much widely-accepted guidance in navigating this space. If you are a “normal” drinker, everything is fair game. However, a recovering addict or alcoholic will need to deliberate a little more before venturing into the zero-proof world.

Mark Sigmund, an addictions counselor in Philadelphia with more than 20 years’ experience working in substance abuse treatment programs, said that people in recovery, “Should be armed with all of the information before making a decision to drink these beverages.” Some things to consider:

Read Labels. People with the disease of alcoholism or addiction should treat it like an allergy. Despite the name, zero-proof and non-alcoholic beverages often have some alcohol in them. If a recovering person imbibes even trace amounts of alcohol, it could set off a craving. “If they haven’t used alcohol in a long time, they have no tolerance, so even a little bit of alcohol can affect them. I’ve seen some people drink O’Doul’s and not relapse, but is it really worth taking the risk of going back to full-blown alcoholism?” asks Sigmund.
Identify triggers. The party scene or bar environment itself could be triggering for an alcoholic, as well as drinking beverages that taste similar to the boozy drinks they used to consume. This is particularly true for people in early recovery. “Frequent exposure to risk increases the chance of relapse,” Sigmund said.
Protect your recovery. Big business is concerned with making money, not ensuring that individuals in recovery don’t relapse. Many of these new products are unregulated, such as Kava (made from the same plant as the drug Kratom) or drinks that include CBD. They tout their health benefits, but can be dangerous for people who have struggled with substance abuse. There’s also the chance that the bartender might put “real” alcohol in your mocktail by mistake.

Overall, however, Sigmund is encouraged with the trend towards more conscious drinking habits. “This movement could help reduce the stigma of being a non-drinker, and show people who are struggling with substance abuse or who are new to recovery that it’s not so bad to be sober. People who don’t drink alcohol might be more accepted in society,” he said.

As a person in long-term recovery, I am excited to try new drink options but will continue to guard my sobriety. I’ve always possessed a heightened awareness of ingredients in food and drink I consume and I ask a lot of questions, especially when traveling. Many cultures don’t think twice about handing you some exotic drink with alcohol in it, so I always do a smell test. I won’t imbibe any of these new zero-proof wines, beer or spirits, since they do still contain alcohol. However, I might partake in some fruity drink concoctions that bars, hotels and cruises are now offering up. A Mango Mule sounds much more interesting than my usual sad diet soda.

Looking for ways to have fun on vacation without drinking? Check out our Sober Travel Advice page!

Miami and Key West, FL

Introduction

Though Miami is synonymous with nightlife, this sun-kissed coastal metropolis has an even more exciting daytime scene. While the beach is an obvious choice, Miami is also home to numerous art museums and galleries, water sports, a popular zoo, fantastic art-deco architecture, and trails and parks you can access all year round. The city’s proximity to the Florida Keys makes for a fun day trip as well.

At the time I received my first Covid-19 vaccine shot in January 2021, I had not been on a plane in a year. The Miami trip kicked off a binge of “revenge travel” where I took 3 trips in 2 months. Like everyone else, I had been cooped up for so long I started spending all of my money on med-spa treatments to fix all of the things I hated about my face from staring at myself on Zoom. I knew I needed to get the hell out of my house ASAP!

The minute I set foot in Miami, I felt like a new person. It was like I was Jesse in El Camino trapped in the drug dealer’s cage and was set free. The weather was 77 degrees and sunny every day I was there, and people packed the beach and dined al fresco as though the pandemic didn’t exist. Miami in January was the perfect travel destination for my first post-vaccine excursion.

A few years after my initial post, I visited my sister in Boca Raton and we took road trips to both Miami and Key West, so any information here is updated as of 2023.

Can’t get enough of Florida’s beaches? Check out this post from Rock a Little Travel for 32 more options in the Sunshine State!

Getting Around

South Beach is fairly condensed, so the beach, restaurants, shops and galleries are mostly within walking distance of each other. If you are looking to branch out to other areas of the city or road trip to the Keys, a car is necessary.

I recommend flying into Fort Lauderdale and renting a car or even Ubering to Miami. The Miami Airport is one of my least favorite due to its vastness, high volume of travelers, and long lines and I will do anything to avoid it. Fort Lauderdale is much smaller but still offers a respectable amount of flights, and is less than an hour from Miami.

Where to Stay

View from Kimpton Palomar rooftop terrace

Miami and Miami Beach are actually separate, distinct cities; divided by Biscayne Bay and connected by a long bridge. Miami is more urban, while Miami Beach is where you find the resorts, celebs, fancy cars and sand.

In 2021, I stayed at the Kimpton Palomar South Beach, which offered a decent location a few blocks from Lincoln Road’s shops and restaurants and down the street from Sunset Harbor. The beach was about a 15 minute walk. I booked a room with a balcony, which was a waste of money because the constant blaring of traffic in the street below made it unusable. If I had to do it again, I would have stayed at the beachfront Surfcomber or Redbury, or tried one of the boutique hotels in the Art Deco historic district a few streets over.

Fun Activities

The Beach

South Beach features large swaths of sand stretching several miles. In spite of this it can still get crowded on nice days. The water is pretty warm year-round and perfect for swimming. Waves lap placidly against the shore. Miami Beach Boardwalk is a pedestrian pathway shaded by palm trees that runs from 5th Street to 46th Street at Indian Beach Park. It is perfect for walking, running, biking or (yes) in-line skating.

One thing you will notice is that everyone on the beach is trying to be an Instagram influencer. I’ve never seen so many people taking selfies or having their friends take photos of them sticking their butts out. I also watched an older woman with bleached hair wander around with no top on, and noted dozens and dozens of glistening, hairless chests and Speedos. The people-watching on Miami Beach is unparalleled.

Wynwood Walls

This was probably the coolest thing I have done in Miami; I first went in 2021 and again when I returned in 2022. Wynwood Walls is located in what used to be a textile district, where old factories are now adorned with street art. It’s a hipster enclave with cafes, restaurants and galleries, surrounded by the skyscrapers of downtown Miami.

Wynwood Walls is an outdoor museum showcasing the works of famous graffiti artists from around the world, from Shepard Fairey (of Obey and Obama Hope poster fame) to up-and-comers like Vhils, who uses miniature dynamite to create detailed images on the sides of concrete walls.

Since I am not well-versed in the world of street art, I booked a tour to gain some background and insight into each of the exhibits. I ended up being the only person who signed up, and got my own personal tour. The ambassador who guided me was a young, tattooed art gallery owner from Italy who was in Miami working since his home country was under lockdown. He filled me in on both the street art scene and his experiences in the art world more broadly.

At the end of the tour you enter into the gallery, where the graffiti artists created pieces that patrons could buy. Many of them were listed in the $20-$50k range, which shows how valuable and mainstream street art has become.

Little dogs

Everyone in Miami has a small dog. They are adorable and I wanted to kidnap them.

Instagram Photos

South Beach is filled with people snapping photos for social media–so why not join them? If you need ideas for captions and quotes, check out these Miami quotes!

Key West

Each of the Florida Keys I passed through on my way to Key West reminded me of Delaware, but with palm trees. Basically a bunch of highway strip malls and car repair shops. The years-long marketing campaign launched by the “other” Keys–Isla Morada, Marathon, Key Largo–did a phenomenal job convincing me that I was going to find paradise. The reality is that if you are planning on doing something other than hanging out in your hotel’s swim-up pool drinking daquiris, there isn’t much for you in the Upper and Middle Keys.

Key West was a different story. It is reminiscent of Provincetown in Cape Cod, bustling with well-heeled tourists and filled with historic buildings, cute shops and great restaurants. There is a main drag, Duval Street, that splits the downtown area, as well as beaches at Fort Zachary Taylor State Park and historical landmarks such as The Hemingway Home and Museum. There are also chickens bobbing around the streets.

There are daily glass bottom boat tours offered at the end of Duval Street near Ocean Key Resort, which I took advantage of. A comfortable catamaran cruised a half-hour out from shore and provided us with an up-close-and-personal view of the local marine life. I spotted barracudas, pufferfish, and clown fish flitting among North America’s only living coral reef. The tour guide also regaled us with stories about stepping on fire coral–twice. It made me grateful to be in the boat and not in the water!

Fort Zachary Taylor State Historic Park has some hiking trails, but the real draw is the beach lined with trees and the clearest blue water rolling up onto the shore. During our stroll around the park we saw several yoga and fitness classes taking place under the canopy.

For any lover of history and literature, a tour of Hemingway House should be on your to-do list. Ernest Hemingway purchased and renovated this Key West estate in the 1950s, and wrote several of his greatest works here. The tour provided a fascinating window into the personal life of one of the most celebrated American writers in all of his talents and flaws.

In nice weather, sunset at the Southernmost Point can get crowded, but with good reason. An array of colors paint the sky as the sun dips below the horizon.

Key West is a top spot for snorkeling and diving, with its warm, clear waters and colorful, tropical fish flitting around the rocks and reef. Read more about Key West snorkeling and diving opportunities from our friends at The Traveling Something blog!

Food

I ate dinner twice at Taverna on Lincoln Avenue, one night for sliders and the next night for Argentinian empanadas. Both meals were on point. In Key West I stopped at a restaurant on Duval Street and ordered the obligatory conch fritters, which were fresh, crispy and delicious.

Running

So happy to not be in 23 degree weather back home in New Jersey!

The Miami Beach Boardwalk is a paved trail that runs parallel to the beach, taking you past the Art Deco Historical District and winding around to the waterfront in Sunset Harbor/Biscayne Bay. I headed out at first light to catch the sunrise. Miami Beach is an active city and the Boardwalk is pretty busy even in the morning, so the earlier you go out, the better.

Recovery Meetings

There is a 6pm outdoor AA meeting every night at Maurice Gibb Memorial Park in Miami Beach that is pretty well-attended. The view is so beautiful it’s actually a little distracting. There is also an 8:30am Sunday morning meeting on the sand in Miami Beach. The guy who chaired the meeting when I went was super tan and oiled up, and was wearing a Speedo swim brief and nothing else, which was the most Miami thing ever.

Here is the list for AA meetings in Miami!

In Key West, the land of never-ending fruity drinks, there are meetings all day, every day at the Anchors Aweigh club house. Located in the middle of town a few blocks from the Hemingway House, the locals are warm and welcoming and give newcomers and out-of-towners “worms” instead of chips!

Sober Weekend Getaway: New Hope, PA & Lambertville, NJ

I love towns. While I spent most of my childhood in a house where my backyard abutted a corn field, and most of my 20s residing in several large cities, I realized in my 30s that I love nothing more than living in a town.

As a weekend getaway, towns are ideal. Traffic and parking are manageable, the streets are clean, and the scenery is gorgeous. You don’t have to worry about navigating public transportation. Getting car-jacked or pick-pocketed is the furthest thing from your mind. And it’s very quiet during the evening, so you’ll be sure to get a good night’s sleep.

When Tim and I were dating, we often spent weekends hanging out in New Hope, PA and Lambertville, NJ, two adorable river towns connected by a quarter-mile bridge. We were smitten with the quaint stores and coffee shops, delicious locally-owned restaurants, interesting history and architecture, and warm-weather activities like festivals, art shows, and fireworks. There are also several good AA meetings in town. We ended up getting married at a venue in Lambertville in 2016 and bought a house there six months later.

Not only are the towns themselves cute and charming, but they are surrounded by natural beauty. Both Bucks County and Hunterdon County are known for their rolling hills, farms and parks. The Delaware River that bisects the towns and the canal tow paths that run for miles alongside it are replete with wildlife and greenery.

Since we moved to Lambertville, the secret has gotten out. On any given day, both towns are bustling with tourists. During the weekends, crowds flow back and forth over the bridge from New Hope to Lambertville, visiting the antique shops, art galleries, restaurants, and coffee and ice cream shops on either side. In the past two years, new businesses have opened to cater to these visitors, including several upscale hotels like Riverhouse at Odette’s in New Hope, and Union Coffee and Del-Vue Arcade in Lambertville.

While it’s a “stay-cation” for us, tourists visit from all over the East Coast to enjoy our adorable river towns and all they have to offer. Keep reading to check out our guide!

Getting Around

New Hope and Lambertville are about an hour from Philadelphia and 90 minutes from New York City by car. There isn’t any public transportation that drops you off in town or nearby, unless you want to take the Trans-Bridge Line from NYC to Lambertville for about $40 one way. It’s a once-per-day route that leaves at 5pm from the city. However, you’ll have to get up at the crack of dawn to catch the return ride at 5:40am.

Downtown New Hope and Lambertville are both less than a mile wide and pedestrian-friendly, so if you park in metered parking on the street or in one of the municipal lots around town, you won’t need a car for the rest of the day–or the weekend, for that matter.

Where to Stay

A few years ago, accommodations in New Hope and Lambertville were limited to two small hotels and a handful of Airbnbs. Since then, multiple luxury hotels have opened in both towns and more than 100 places are listed on Airbnb on any given weekend. These have all sprung up to cater to the weekend travelers from New York City and beyond.

The recently renovated Logan Inn in New Hope offers 38 spacious and well-appointed rooms on River Road, the town’s main thoroughfare, across the street from Ferry Market. Like most of the hotels in this guide, there is also a highly-rated restaurant on the premises.

On the towpath steps from downtown New Hope is River House at Odette’s, another boutique hotel. Many of its rooms feature a balcony with stunning views of the Delaware River.

Chimney Hill Estate is a three-minute drive outside of Lambertville, close to Goat Hill Overlook. Established in 2022, this bed and breakfast is located on a beautiful farmhouse estate with large, luxurious suites. Their rooms are pricey but exquisite as far as finishes, space and amenities.

Lambertville Station and Lambertville House are the most tenured hotels in the area, and are centrally located in town on Bridge Street. Both offer restaurants on their premises, although Lambertville House is more of a drinking establishment and their food is mediocre. Lambertville Station is the larger of the two hotels and offers river views in some of their rooms. Both of these hotels are slightly more affordable than the other three mentioned previously.

Fun Activities in New Hope and Lambertville

ACME Screening Room

The ACME is a hidden gem in Lambertville. It’s a movie house that features indie films as well as a film club and various events like a Halloween film fest. They usually show films on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.

Bucks County Playhouse

A well-known and popular theater, BCP has been around since 1930. Over the years, theatrical and cinematic royalty have graced its stage including Robert Redford, Grace Kelly, Kevin Kline and Liza Minnelli. Its proximity to New York City means that it often premieres future Broadway productions. BCP was renovated a few years ago and now is the centerpiece of a complex that includes several high-end restaurants overlooking the river.

Art Galleries & Antique Stores

Both towns are home to a cluster of art galleries and antique stores, however, Lambertville has a higher concentration. Highlights include The People’s Store, a collection of jewelry, furniture, art and decor spanning three floors, as well as The Golden Nugget, an outdoor flea market a few miles outside of town that runs on Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday mornings. Multiple art galleries showcasing a variety of styles and mediums line Bridge Street and Union Street in Lambertville.

Del-Vue Arcade

Opened earlier this year, Del-Vue is a video game arcade with an assortment of retro games, pinball and ski ball machines, pool tables as well as a soda shop. It’s a fun, casual way to spend an afternoon or evening with kids, with friends or on a date. It’s located in Lambertville across the street from the ACME.

Menlha Center

If you need some time out to recharge and reconnect, the Menlha Center is a Buddhist meditation center on North Union Street in Lambertville that runs classes and meditation sessions throughout the week. They also hold special events on most Saturday mornings. Their space is absolutely gorgeous, with high, white-washed brick walls, large windows, comfortable couches and free refreshments.

Food

Mexican

With a significant Latino population, Lambertville boasts several top-notch Mexican restaurants. Aztlan Mexican Grill and El Tule are neck and neck, as both offer delicious, authentic cuisine and a pleasant outdoor seating area. Aztlan has amazing nachos (chicken tinga and steak are equally good), and El Tule offers exceptional ceviche and seafood dishes with tacu tacu, a Peruvian grain that they cook to crispy perfection.

Italian

Broadmoor is a small and elegant restaurant serving up excellent pasta dishes and the best simple appetizer salads in town. Taverna 54 is a newer establishment earning rave reviews for their dinner and weekend brunch offerings.

American

A transplant from Peddler’s Village, Chive Cafe is a breakfast and lunch favorite, with a large assortment of sandwich options including buttermilk fried chicken sandwich and southwestern black bean burger. They also do dinner Monday through Wednesday and have a rotating menu of specials.

The Hawke is a casual steakhouse with a shaded, expansive patio area that is a joy to dine on during a warm evening. The steak is very good and their potato dishes are killer. At most restaurants, potatoes are an afterthought, but The Hawke takes pride in their sides.

Dessert

Owowcow is an ice cream shop located at the far end of Lambertville on North Union. It’s about a 15 minute walk from the center of town past wide, leafy streets and Victorian-style mansions. Owowcow delivers some of the best ice cream in the region, sourcing all of their ingredients from local organic farms. They have flavors like caramel cashew, honey lavender and cookie monstah.

Nina’s Waffles is a local chain with several Bucks County shops, including one in New Hope. They offer chewy, warm Belgian waffles topped with home-made ice cream. Their New Hope location has a spacious outdoor seating area, perfect for a summer evening. If you get a waffle and ice cream, you might want to skip dinner or share it, as it is quite filling.

Running

Goat Hill Overlook

A 5-minute drive outside of town, Goat Hill Overlook is a park with a short, upward gravel path that leads to a spectacular view of the Delaware River and the New Hope/Lambertville bridge. According to local legend, General George Washington stood on a rock atop the palisade to oversee preparations for the attack on Trenton during the Revolutionary War. In addition to the path leading to the overlook, there are other trails winding through the woods; in total they run about 2.5 miles.

Towpath

There are two parallel canal tow paths running through New Hope and Lambertville, along the Delaware River. On the Pennsylvania side, the path stretches almost 59 miles from Easton to Bristol. New Jersey’s trail runs in multiple segments, including the one from Frenchtown to Trenton. During the Industrial Revolution, these canals and tow paths carried grain, textiles, and other goods up and down the river. Now they are used by bikers, joggers and pedestrians. You can do a 7-mile loop if you take the tow path North from Lambertville to Stockton, cross over the bridge and then head South back to New Hope.

Recovery Meetings

There are several quality, well-attended AA meetings on both sides of the river. Foglifters is the best known; a strong and robust group with multiple meetings per day, including one daily at 7am. It’s located a few miles outside of downtown New Hope, next to Bowman’s Wildflower Preserve. Lambertville offers several meetings on Sundays, Tuesdays and Saturdays that are located in town.

New Hope and Lambertville are two towns steeped in history. If you are a history buff and interested in more locations like this, check out our destination guide!

Istanbul

Introduction

Istanbul is an ideal place to travel if you are not planning on drinking. While Turkey is technically a secular country, most of its citizens are Muslim, a religion in which alcohol is considered “haram” (prohibited or sinful). Instead, they love their tea and Turkish coffee. There are pockets of the city with bars and party-goers, but they are easy to avoid. Since the city has so much to offer in terms of tours, shopping, architecture, history, culture and food, there are plenty of activities to fill your time in which drinking is not even a consideration.

Istanbul is a delightful mix of new and old, with shiny contemporary buildings across the Bosphorus from a Roman-era Hippodrome, and historic bazaars and cobblestone streets alongside fancy high-rises and name brands. You’ll hear the call to prayer 5 times a day bellowing from the thousands of minarets across the city, sail back and forth across the Bosphorus waterway, get lost in the maze of the Grand Bazaar and probably want to take home several of the kitties you see wandering around the streets.

As one of the most beautiful cities in the world, Istanbul offers plenty of opportunities for Instagram photo ops. Check out the best photo spots in Istanbul!

Getting Around

Hagia Sophia, Yoros Kalesi, Topkapi Palace

Ferries

Sehir Hatlari operates the ferries that criss-cross the Bosphorus. I’ve been on ferries before, but the ferries in Istanbul are by far the most impressive public transportation experience I’ve ever had. The beauty of the region is on full display: the sparkling water, the skyline pierced with minarets. You can pop over to the hip Kadikoy neighborhood or sail over to the Princes Islands, all for a few dollars per trip.

The Bosphorus Straight bisects Istanbul and is central to life in the city, from the fishermen who gather every morning on the eponymous bridge that connects the European and Asian sides of the capital, to the ferries that shuttle millions of people and goods across the straight each day. Check out this article from Explore With Finesse to take a deeper dive into this iconic body of water!

Istanbul Metro

The Metro is easy to navigate and is by far the best way to get around the city. Coming from the historic district, we were able to easily access Istiklal street, Taksim Square, Dolmabache Palace and other points of interest. During peak times it can get crowded, but it is safe and clean.

Where to Stay

We stayed in the Albinas Hotel Old City in Sultanahmet. It was a cute boutique hotel that was super affordable and perfectly located in the heart of the historic district. There were multiple decent restaurants nearby and it was minutes from the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, and Basilica Cistern as well as the Metro. If you are a first-time traveler to Istanbul, I recommend staying in Sultanahmet. Though it’s a little touristy, it is a solid home-base for exploration.

Fun Activities

Tour of Sultanahmet

We did a full-day walking tour of the historic district to get the lay of the land. It’s the best way to hit all of the Istanbul essentials, meet other tourists, and ask questions of our tour guide about other must-see attractions and activities. Sites such as the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace and Grand Bazaar are all within walking distance of each other, and it’s always a more enriching experience to have an expert explaining the historical significance of these places to you.

Istiklal Caddesi

Translated as “Independence Avenue”, Istiklal Caddesi is a mile-long pedestrian walkway located in the Beyoglu district that draws 3 million visitors on some weekend days. Neon signs for Nike and H&M blink alongside music stores, bookstores, art galleries, movie theaters, restaurants and patisseries, housed in stately Ottoman-era buildings that loom over the street. While there is a bar area off Istiklal Caddesi that locals and tourists frequent to imbibe, they are located off the main avenue and probably outnumbered by the baklava shops. It is worth it to wander the alleyways behind the main drag, as there are some neat bazaars, cafes and hookah lounges to be found.

Grand Bazaar

While there are bazaars (markets) all over the city, the Grand Bazaar is the mother of them all. A labyrinth of 4,000 vendors with 250,000-400,000 daily visitors, the Grand Bazaar offers everything from scarves to dried fruit and nuts to jewelry. Between us, Tim and I bought 5 pairs of New Balance sneakers for about $100 total.

Princes Islands

Accessible only by ferry, the Princes Islands are a respite from the hustle and bustle of Istanbul proper. While there are nine islands, you can only visit four, and Büyükada is the most interesting from a tourist perspective. There are very few cars on the island, and most folks get around on foot or one of the horse-drawn carriages that you can flag down anywhere. There are some gorgeous, scenic spots for photos, and along the coast you can see how truly huge Istanbul is from afar–a skyline of buildings for as far as the eye can see.

Intercontinental

Not an “activity”, per se, but its tea room is open to the public and has the best views in all of Istanbul. Visit right before sunset to get the most revelatory experience.

Yoros Kalesi

A Byzantine castle at the mouth of the Black Sea, this site is reachable by ferry. A small town greets you as you step off the boat, offering some shopping and good seafood restaurants.

Kadikoy

Most of the expats we met during our trip lived in this neighborhood. It features cool restaurants and cafes, including this Breaking Bad-inspired coffee shop.

Food

Food tour

We booked a food tour with the company Withlocals through Viator. It’s a private walking tour around the popular neighborhoods of Istanbul, which gave us a local’s experience with Turkish cuisine. Our guide was a pastry chef herself, who was very knowledgeable about both the food culture and the city. Just let the company know prior to the tour that you will not be drinking, since sometimes they include alcoholic beverages on the tour.

Baklava

Baklava is EVERYWHERE, and it’s amazing.

Cafes

There are about 57 cafes on every block, and the staff are very aggressive in competing for diners. After getting menus shoved into your hands every time you walk down a street, you will learn to ignore them. Pretty much every restaurant has kababs and a terrace, so it’s better to do your homework on a specific neighborhood you will be in prior to getting hungry, so that you won’t get accosted by a waiter when you pause to look at a menu posted outside the door of a restaurant.

The best areas for finding a great meal are Beygolu and Kadikoy. Sultanahmet has some good eats too, but is a little more touristy and expensive.

During your trip, make sure you find yourself some pide. It’s a personal-sized flatbread with crispy edges stuffed with various fillings. We called it “boat pizza” and it’s delicious!

Running

Istanbul is very safe for tourists, and I had no issues running in the morning by myself (aside from a rabid stray dog that chased me down the street). Gulhane Park is a well-maintained spot with some trails in Sultanahmet. There is a waterfront trail that takes you along the outer rim of the historic district and up across the Galata bridge, past the throng of fishermen, into Galata and Beyoglu. Since Istanbul is such a populous city, you have to run in the morning to avoid the inevitable jam of people, traffic and public transportation that materializes after about 9:30 or 10am.

Kitties

I’m pretty sure the cats of Istanbul were my favorite part of our trip. They appear out of every nook and cranny in the city and they are so adorable and tame. Local residents and restaurant owners often put out food for them, and they are very comfortable around people.

There are stray dogs too, although one chased me down the street during a morning run, so I would not recommend trying to pet them!

Recovery Meetings

There is a surprisingly strong expat recovery community in Istanbul. Believe it or not, Tim and I hung out with a girl whom I had met years before at an AA convention when we were both living in California! Everyone was super friendly, and we ended up spending a lot of time after each meeting we attended with some of the group members, who were only too happy to bring us to different restaurants and hidden gems around the city. Here is the website for their meetings.

Interested in learning about other historic travel destinations? Check out our section for history buffs!