Introduction
The Bay Area and SoCal get all of the attention, but the Central Coast of California, which includes Big Sur, Monterey, Carmel-by-the-Sea, San Simeon and San Luis Obispo, is magical in its own way. If you have ever wanted to rent a vintage car and drive the Pacific Coast Highway between Los Angeles and San Francisco, make sure you reserve a few days to explore this region along the way. Each town offers something unique—a world-renowned aquarium and pro-level golf links in Monterey and Pebble Beach, a historic Spanish mission and cliff walks in Carmel, and a 20th-century castle built by newspaper tycoon William Randolph Hearst in San Simeon. At every location, you are no more than a stone’s throw from the Pacific Ocean, and the distance from the hustle and bustle of the big metros gives travelers the feeling of how California used to be: glorious weather, glimmering sea, and open road.
Doing a Cali road trip down the Pacific Coast Highway? Check out our post about San Diego and Southern California!
Getting Around
Reliable, convenient public transportation is a far-fetched fantasy in the Golden State. California’s growth was fueled by highways and the cars that drive on them, and residents and tourists still remain mostly dependent on that mode of transportation. California politicians have been promising a high-speed rail from Los Angeles to San Francisco for decades, and it has yet to materialize. So if you want to get around, you will need to rent a car.
Where to Stay
There are several absolutely adorable boutique hotels in the heart of Carmel, like the Carriage House Inn and Coachman’s Inn. My mom and I stayed at The Normandy Inn, which was quaint and clean and they left breakfast at our front door in the morning. For seclusion and breathtaking views, try Big Sur. The Post Ranch Inn and Ventana Big Sur offer 5-Star amenities with accompanying 5-Star prices, while Glen Oaks Big Sur provides a gorgeous camp-like setting.
Fun Activities
- Carmel Mission
Founded in 1770, the Carmel Mission Basilica and the Shrine of Saint Junipero Serrais is a historical landmark outside of downtown Carmel. In addition to the museum and beautiful grounds, the Mission has an active Catholic parish and school, and includes a working chapel with daily mass, weddings and other services.
- Monterey Bay Aquarium
The Monterey Bay Aquarium is world-renowned for its collection of 80,000 sea creatures (including squid, which I am told is rare). They are also at the forefront of marine research and policy, as well as science education. If you are staying in Carmel or Monterey, this is an easy afternoon activity.
- Hearst Castle
Hearst Castle, as you can tell from my copious amount of photos, is my favorite place to visit on the Central Coast. Located in San Simeon, this “castle” was built by newspaper magnate William Randolph Hearst over the course of several decades in the early 20th Century. I’ve visited multiple times and the guided tour is super interesting. My favorite tidbit I learned was that WRH would fly (fly–as in on a plane) the drafts of his newspapers to his castle every day to review before they were printed and sold on newsstands.
Even if you are not a history buff, the grounds themselves are exquisite. WRH built a zoo, an indoor and outdoor pool, tennis courts overlooking the mountains, and multiple guests suites to house his celebrity friends (including Winston Churchill, Charlie Chaplin, Cary Grant, and Charles Lindbergh). He adorned everything with priceless art and artifacts from around the world.
- Hiking
If you love to tramp around and take in spectacular views at the same time–the Central Coast has numerous options. Point Lobos is a state park a few miles outside of Carmel with easy walking trails, including a cliff walk with breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean and the shore line. Montaña de Oro is a state park six miles southwest of Morro Bay and two miles south of Los Osos. It has 8,000 acres of cliffs, seven miles of shoreline, sandy beaches, coastal plains, streams, canyons, and hills, including the 1,347-foot Valencia Peak. Pismo Preserve is a spot in San Luis Obispo County with great hiking, biking, running and horse trails.
Big Sur, the famed spot between Santa Cruz and Monterey, is a prime location for hiking, camping and of course, spectacular views. For a deeper dive into Big Sur, including accessible activities, check out this article by Sick Girl Travels.
Running
Since there isn’t much in the way of cities and towns on the Central Coast with great running or walking trails, your best bet is to head to a park where you can run uninterrupted, and safely. Otherwise, you are running on the side of a highway!
Food
The first time I ever went to Carmel, I was with my dad. For lunch we stopped at Dametra Cafe, a popular Mediterranean restaurant right in the heart of town. Not only was the food delicious, but we got serenaded by the owner who whipped out a guitar in front of all his guests!
Heading down the coast, Nepenthe and Cafe Kevah is a separate restaurant, cafe and shop perched on top of a cliff in Big Sur. They have a spacious outdoor patio perfect for taking in the mountain air, gorgeous California weather and of course the ocean view. The restaurant serves typical American fare like steak and burgers. It’s certainly not a budget choice (the 8oz filet is $54) but it might be worth a try for a special romantic evening.
Downtown San Luis Obispo offers several gastronomic highlights for every mood, including Goshi for sushi/Japanese, Brasserie SLO for Californian/American, and Ciopinot for seafood.
Recovery Meetings
San Luis Obispo has a strong recovery community. Meetings and updates can be found here. For meetings in and around Monterey Bay (including Carmel) go here.
The Temperate Traveler 