Puerto Vallarta, Mexico: 10 Things to Know Before You Go

While Puerto Vallarta (“PV”) has a reputation as a party town, sober travelers have nothing to worry about when it comes to enjoying this oceanside resort. There is plenty to do, see and experience that does not revolve around alcohol–and there are plenty of people who live and visit here who do not drink. If you are a first timer planning a trip, check out the following tips on what to expect before heading to this West Coast Mexican city.

1. Where should I stay in Puerto Vallarta? 

There is a significant disparity among each of the neighborhoods as far as accessibility to the beach and various sights and attractions, noise levels, and cultural immersion. Here are the neighborhoods you are most likely to stay in, from North to South:

Marina: Adjacent to the airport, this area has several high-end resorts including the Marriott and the Westin, as well as a concentration of shops and restaurants surrounding the eponymous harbor. Comprised mostly of tourists, but also close to the turtle camp.

Hotel Zone: Located equidistant from the Romantic Zone and the Marina, the Hotel Zone is exactly what you would imagine–a phalanx of resorts facing the ocean. It’s ideal for families or couples who plan to stay onsite for the balance of their vacation. However, the area is mostly busy highway and commercial buildings, and nothing is walkable.

5 de Diciembre: Puerto Vallarta’s boardwalk, or Malecon, begins here. The district offers a strong dose of Mexican flavor, with prayer flags, chickens and locals sitting out on their stoops. Not much in the way of hotels, but Airbnbs are fairly cheap here.

Centro/”Gringo Gulch”: The Rio Cuale, which runs from the Sierra Madre Mountains into Banderas Bay, bisects the city of Puerto Vallarta. Three bridges connect Centro to Emiliano Zapata, which makes it a great option for visitors. This is where the iconic Our Lady of Guadalupe Church is located, as well as a large number of really good restaurants, shops and art galleries.

A nickname for this area is “Gringo Gulch”, after the light-skinned residents who settled here in the 1950s and 1960s. The most notable of these would be the Old Hollywood actors Liz Taylor and Richard Burton, who you will hear about on every tour you book in PV.

Emiliano Zapata: Nestled between the Rio Cuale and the Romantic Zone, this area still very much retains its cultural identity, with taco and churro trucks lining the streets, azujelo (tile) and leather shops, and a farmer’s market.

Romantic Zone: The most popular (and expensive) neighborhood, the Romantic Zone runs from Playa los Muertos to Route 200, brimming with popular restaurants, bars, clubs and stores. While it is certainly vibrant, this is probably not the ideal area to stay in if you are sober and want to go to bed at a reasonable hour.

Amapas: My personal favorite, Amapas is located right above the Romantic Zone. Most of the houses and buildings are perched on the side of the hill, giving you spectacular views. It’s a very quiet area in the city, yet you are a five-minute walk to all of the sights and attractions. However, if you don’t like hills and stairs, this location is probably not for you.

Conchas Chinas: Down the road from Amapas is Conchas Chinas, which boasts secluded, serene beaches and breathtaking views of the ocean and the city. Depending on where you stay, it might be a bit of an inconvenience to get downtown. But if you are looking for higher-end accommodations, views and privacy, this is the neighborhood for you.

2. Sober support

Alano Club Puerto Vallarta has been an institution for decades, attracting native Vallartans and expats alike. Everyone is super friendly and welcoming, and often host events, activities and conferences. Virtually all of their meetings are in English, and they host AA, NA and Al-Anon, with specialty groups for men, women and LGBTQ. They recently moved to their new digs at the International Friendship Center, next to the bridge separating Emiliano Zapata and Centro. For more information and a meeting schedule, head to their website.

3. Watch where you step

This is not a place to bring high heels. Wear comfortable shoes, because the sidewalk is uneven, the downtown area has cobblestone streets with lots of random potholes and construction, and there are many, many steps. I’ve seen multiple tourists take a tumble on the street, so be careful!

4. No hablas Espanol? No problema

One of the charms about Puerto Vallarta is that it has retained its Mexican identity to a great extent, with cobblestone streets, prayer flags draped across buildings and a bounty of carts serving up tacos and churros. But the city also caters to its five million annual tourists, so most workers and residents are bilingual. If your Spanish is not great, you can still get by.

5. Bring pesos with you

Fewer and fewer establishments are accepting credit cards in Puerto Vallarta. This is especially true in downtown PV and in the surrounding beach towns such as Sayulita, Bocas de Tomatlan and Yelapa. On our most recent trip, none of the restaurants we dined in took credit cards.

I always purchase several hundred dollars’ worth of foreign currency from my bank prior to my travels, for tips and such, but it’s virtually essential when heading to Puerto Vallarta. If you need to take out cash while in Mexico, go to an ATM attached to a bank. They are less likely to be tampered with and will have less expensive fees and better exchange rates.

6. Traffic is no bueno

As more people have discovered PV, more vehicles now clog the already taxed roadways. What used to be a 20-minute trip from the airport to downtown Puerto Vallarta now takes 40-45 minutes. Drivers who were already aggressive and saw traffic rules as merely suggestions did not change their ways. There always seems to be a broken-down truck on the side of the road that worsens congestion, or a random orange barrel placed in the center lane. When looking at a map and calculating how long a trip might take you, add on about 30 minutes, “Mexican time”. 

If you choose to rent a car, make sure you go with a well-known, reputable car company like Hertz or Enterprise. They will be less likely to tack on random charges or “insurance” that doubles the amount you pay, or scam you for hundreds of dollars when they find small scratches on your car.

To avoid having to deal with traffic, stay in a central area such as the Romantic Zone or Amapas, book tours that include transportation to places out of town, and use Uber when you don’t feel like walking up hills anymore. Viator.com is my go-to when booking tours in any country, and Adventures Vallarta is an excellent local company with fun excursions in Puerto Vallarta and beyond. Tours are great way to discover and enjoy the sights in and around the city, while leaving the driving to a local who is more accustomed to the roads, traffic patterns and driver tendencies.

7. It’s super safe in Puerto Vallarta

Traffic headaches aside, Puerto Vallarta is very safe. As a female traveler, there have been destinations where I have felt uncomfortable. Puerto Vallarta is not one of those. Wandering around town by myself, whether it’s early in the morning, in broad daylight or late in the evening, no one bothers me and I feel perfectly safe. In fact, most folks on the street will give you a smile and a “Buenas dias!”

Like any city, you might encounter the occasional petty crime or scam, but as long as you take precautions and have your wits about you, most travelers have nothing to worry about. Officially, Puerto Vallarta’s crime rate is 38/100. By comparison, Maui and Miami are 58/100. More than anything, you should worry about the random potholes in the sidewalk. Or sea urchins.

8. The food in Puerto Vallarta is incredible–except on the Malecon

It’s an unwritten rule that the closer you get to the Malecon, the worse the food is. The cuisine lining the mile-long boardwalk adjacent to the beach consists mainly of mediocre seafood and soupy Caesar salads. Because you have a beautiful view in a prime location, restaurants can charge a premium and serve sub-par food while being confident that customers will still keep coming.

Check out any of the restaurants or taco stands a few blocks back, and there are a multitude of tasty options, offering everything from traditional Mexican fare to healthy organic eats, to brunch, to Italian.

Head over to this Sober Travel Advice post to find out the best (and worst) foods we’ve eaten while traveling!

9. Puerto Vallarta is a gay mecca

If you are looking for an inclusive destination, Puerto Vallarta fits the bill. Gay and lesbian couples and friend groups travel from all over North America and beyond to let loose in an open and welcoming environment. Walking down the street you might pass more gay couples than straight, particularly in the Romantic Zone and Olas Altas. 

10. Spas in Puerto Vallarta

Walking down the street in Puerto Vallarta, there seems to be multiple spas on every block. However, there is a BIG difference between a spa that operates with trained massage therapists, cosmetologists and estheticians and one that, well, doesn’t. I’ve experienced some terrible pedicures and criminally unsatisfying massages after walking into a random spa in PV without doing my homework.

You could check out your hotel’s spa, although they tend to be expensive–as in, 2-3 times as much as a local spa. I am a huge fan of Metamorfosis Day Spa in Amapas, which I’ve patronized the last four times I’ve visited Puerto Vallarta. The facility itself is bright and Zen, with friendly staff and therapists who give an excellent 90-minute full-body massage for $60. Mantra Spa in Centro is also clean and inviting, and their therapists do a great deep tissue massage for 700 pesos an hour. 

I hope these tips have helped you feel more confident in knowing what to expect when traveling to this beautiful city on the Mexican Pacific Coast. For a comprehensive overview on how to get around, where to eat and what to do, head over to my Puerto Vallarta travel guide.