Introduction
San Miguel de Allende (SMA) has landed on many “best of” travel lists in recent years, and it is easy to see why. Nestled in the mountains a few hours’ drive from Mexico City, this charming metropolis boasts pleasant year-round weather, a renowned arts scene, a multitude of high-end gastronomic offerings, stunning vistas, and colorful, colonial architecture, punctuated by the towering pink spires of the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel, a 17th-century Gothic church in the central square that looks like it was plucked out of a Disney movie.
Getting Around
There are several ways to get to San Miguel and none of them are quick and easy. We took a flight from Newark to Houston, and Houston to Queretero Airport, which is about an hour’s drive to San Miguel. We then hired a round-trip shuttle for $100. You could also fly into Leon (about 90 minutes away) or Mexico City (3.5 hours, but there are more direct flights).
San Miguel is not a huge city, so getting anywhere on foot will not take you more than 30 minutes. If you don’t feel like walking up and down the copious hills, most Uber trips are under $5. Because of the narrow, cobble-stoned streets and lack of parking, renting a car is not advised unless you have a dedicated parking spot at your hotel or Airbnb and you plan to take trips outside of the city.
If you do want to rent a car, Hertz is the company we recommend. While other car rental companies may be cheaper, we never have issues with Hertz. They are always quick and efficient at the counter during pick-up, and don’t hassle you about minor nicks when dropping off. We experienced enough horror stories with budget car rental companies to make the switch to one that is well-known and professional, and we haven’t regretted it yet.
Where to Stay
San Miguel has accommodations for any type of budget, from a $60/night Airbnb studio on the outskirts of town to internationally-recognized luxury resorts like Rosewood San Miguel de Allende for $500/night in the heart of the action. We stayed in the $60 Airbnb, which was actually quite nice. The apartment was inside of an art gallery with modern Spanish decor, an expansive deck with views of the city and was on a quiet street a 25-minute walk from most of the restaurants and activities. Our host Isis had an adorable little chihuahua that we played with a few times during our weekend stay. You definitely should book within a mile of the city center, since it is preferable to walk everywhere and the hills can be brutal.
Fun Activities
City Tour
When in a new city, we usually like to book a walking tour in order get our bearings and identify places we would like to circle back to. We booked the 2-hour Discover and Explore San Miguel Allende, which introduced us to the top museums, parks and landmarks in the city. We got lucky and witnessed a wedding procession, where a 10-foot tall paper mache bride and groom paraded through Benito Juárez Park.
Balloon Rides
This is a top activity in San Miguel. The company Globo San Miguel has the best reviews and offers daily rides. We heard from others that it was an amazing experience and wish we had booked when we had the opportunity!
Artisan Markets
There are several markets in San Miguel, including the expansive Mercado de Artesanías, which spans across multiple blocks and is considered one of the can’t-miss attractions in the city. The market consists of two distinct sections: one is mostly produce and food, and the other is textiles, pottery, jewelry, artwork and other goods. Vendors are open to bartering, although the prices are very reasonable. Remember to bring your pesos!
Food
Rooftop Dining
San Miguel boasts a climate and a culture that encourages year-round alfresco dining, and restaurants with a rooftop terrace are a hot commodity. If you wish to eat al fresco while taking in hot air balloons during the day or the twinkling city lights at night, you better make a reservation. Even during weekdays, most restaurants are jam-packed, especially if they offer a rooftop terrace.
We got breakfast one morning at Inside Cafe, which had a nice outdoor space and delicious, fresh and healthy food. When we struck out one night on rooftop dining because we failed to make a reservation, we ate at Hecho en Mexico, which offered great Mexican menu options with an interior garden seating area–a suitable consolation prize.
Coffee and Sweets
Our first morning in San Miguel, we searched for a coffee spot and came across Cafe Buen Dia in Zona Centro. It had a lovely courtyard and delicious coffee.
There are several French bakeries in SMA, including Panio, which also has multiple locations across the city. They sell enticing but average baked goods, in addition to other offerings such as coffee and sandwiches. There is another French cafe called El Petit Four that does sit-down breakfast in addition to coffee and pastries.
Running
Mornings in San Miguel are ideal for a run, with crisp, dry air and temperatures hovering around the mid-40s. I donned a long-sleeved shirt and a pullover and was very comfortable after jogging for five minutes. Some of the hills are tough but the payoff is the views you’ll get from the top. If you are out early enough, you will spot the flock of hot hair balloons flying above the roof tops. As with most urban areas, the mornings before 9am are the best time to run as there is much less traffic and congestion than later in the day.
Recovery Meetings
Within the city proper, there is an English-speaking AA club house with well-attended meetings in a nondescript building with a large, open meeting room. They host all types of meetings: Step, Big Book, Speaker etc. Most members are expats from the US or Canada.
The Temperate Traveler 