Planning a Trip to Greece
Known around the world as the cradle of democracy, inspiring art, architecture, ideas and culture from the Renaissance to the Olympics to college fraternities, Athens is a city defined by its history. The Acropolis sits perched on a massive granite hill above the modern, low-slung buildings now common in the city. Wandering around the Ancient Agora and the neighborhoods at the foot of the Acropolis, the Parthenon, Temple of Athena Nike and other famous structures are constantly in sight, inspiring a sense of wonder and awe. Even after several millennia, multiple invasions, and continuous looting, it’s still impressive, spurring thoughts of what it must have been like during its heyday 2,500 years ago, when Athens was a mighty Greek city-state.
I had heard mixed reviews of Athens, so I was prepared not to like it. In fact, I found it vibrant and interesting. Besides the designated cultural sites and museums, you will stumble across ancient foundations, pillars and other artifacts as you roam around the city. For instance, there are ruins on both sides of the train tracks between Thisso Station and Monastiraki Square, and you’ll see cordoned-off areas and plaques next to a parking lot, or between apartment buildings, identifying various old churches or monuments. While it appeared that city officials had given up on graffiti remediation, it was kind of charming when juxtaposed with the stately buildings, cobble-stoned streets and creamy granite that comprised the downtown area.
The neighborhoods skirting the Acropolis are filled with young people, buskers, restaurants, shops and vendors, and are relatively clean and safe. I took this trip by myself and I never felt uncomfortable as a woman traveling alone. Depending on how you travel, it can also be less expensive than other cities in Europe. I took the train everywhere and grabbed most of my meals from the ubiquitous cafes and coffee shops, and got away with spending less than $25 per day. You can easily drop much more than that taking taxis and eating out at fancy restaurants, but there is really no need.
Like most Mediterranean countries, Greece has a strong wine culture. But also like most Mediterranean countries, there is plenty to see and do besides drink. Spending a few days in Athens, you will fill your day with sightseeing and exploration, capping each night with an al fresco dinner taking in views of the Acropolis reflecting the setting sun.
Here is my step-by-step guide to planning a perfect sober vacation!
Getting Around in Athens
Pretty much everyone uses public transportation in Athens, despite (or because of) the overwhelming number of cars and bumper to bumper traffic. Besides the taxi I reserved on Booking.com to and from the airport, I used the Athens Metro system to get around. It includes trains, buses and trams and runs from 5 am until midnight, connecting to most major points of interest. I took the train to get to the National Archaeological Museum, the Parthenon Group of AA and the Pireaus Ferry Port. Each trip cost about 2 Euro, the trains were on time and relatively clean, save for the graffiti which covers every square inch of the city. Tickets are purchased with a credit card from the machines located at each station.
Where to Stay in Athens
The cluster of neighborhoods encircling the Acropolis are the most convenient to attractions and transportation and offer the best array of restaurants and shops. These districts include Plaka, Monastiraki, Syntagma, Thissio, Psiri, and Koukaki, and can all be easily reached on foot no matter where you stay, so you don’t have to worry about missing out on any of them. Monastiraki and Thissio both have centrally located train stations, so you might want to stay in those areas if you plan to use public transport. Thissio is next to the walking trail that winds around the Acropolis, which is also lined with restaurants, and is a 20 minute trek to the Acropolis Museum. Monastiraki is more lively, with its eponymous square, Ermou Street for shopping and access to the Plaka neighborhood’s nightlife.
Apeiron Acropolis Suites is a complex of apartments tucked into a quiet side street, but close to all of the action and steps from the Thissio station. The place was lovely and clean and the hosts were very friendly, providing me with recommendations for things to do and places to eat. Royalty Hotel Athens was located at the cross section of Ermou Street, a half-block from Monastiraki Square. It had nice, modern rooms, a perfect location and a delicious breakfast. For both the apartment and hotel, I used my go-to, Booking.com, and spent extra to secure the best-reviewed accommodations. Over the past few years, any time I try to save a few bucks on a hotel or rental I’ve regretted it, and I don’t need that negativity in my life.
Looking for other ideas on where to stay? Check out this post from Places of Juma on places to stay in Athens!
Fun Things to do in Athens
If you visit in the summer, you will want to limit your time outdoors because it is not unusual for temperatures to top 100 degrees. If you are planning any activities like running, walking, or touring the Acropolis, you will want to finish up before 10 am. Definitely do not do the hop-on, hop-off bus tour because you will either melt in the direct sun on top of the bus or be crammed inside the bus with all the other tourists. I planned my museum trips for the middle of the day to beat the heat, and booked an early morning tour of the Acropolis. If I ever return to Athens, I will probably do a May or October trip, when the crowds are fewer and the temperatures are more moderate.
- Explore the Agora
While they are naturally close in proximity, the Agora and the Acropolis are two separate entities. When the Greeks first constructed the Agora, it was used as a community hub, with markets and meeting spaces. For 10 Euro, you can explore the Ancient Agora and walk through the same streets that members of this advanced society did thousands of years ago. I arrived as the doors opened at 8 am, when the sun was still rising and there were only a handful of visitors. It was spellbinding. The Ancient Agora contains several well-preserved buildings such as the Temple of Hephaestus, as well as teams of archaeologists milling around, uncovering artifacts to this day.
If you walk up the hill outside of the fence that encapsulates the ruins of the Ancient Agora, you’ll encounter narrow, winding streets and charming little homes (and stray kitties). Walk a little further and you’ll find a large rock with stairs leading up to the top, where you’ll experience panoramic views of both the Acropolis and the expansive city of more than 5 million people.
- Book a Tour of the Acropolis
I used TripAdvisor to book the Acropolis and Acropolis Museum Tour. The small group tour included tickets to both attractions, and the tour guide provided history and context that I wouldn’t have gotten otherwise. While the Agora was for the community and the citizens of Athens, the Acropolis was a place of worship, which is why so many temples were built at the top of the hill. The various monuments are even more impressive up close, and it was astounding to me that the ancient Greeks constructed buildings so massive, expertly designed and aesthetically beautiful. If you tour between the months of May and October, make sure to pack your patience because there will be crowds, and it will be hot. However, that is not a reason to miss this once-in-a-lifetime experience!
- Check out the Museums
Athens is home to several well-regarded museums, which offer a multitude of interesting exhibits on prehistoric and ancient Greece and Athens. They are also air-conditioned, so it’s a nice afternoon activity on hot days. The National Archaeological Museum costs 12 Euro for access to their collections of jewelry, vases, weapons, and other artifacts. The Acropolis Museum is the pride and joy of Athens. The government spent millions of dollars during their economic crisis 15 years ago to build their answer to the British Museum in London. The shiny new structure is dedicated to all things Acropolis, housing many artifacts taken and preserved from the top of the “holy rock”. On the lower floor outside, visitors can view outlines of stone houses, businesses and other buildings that encompass the Agora.
- Explore the Neighborhoods
Most of the shopping, restaurants and attractions are located in the vicinity of the Agora and Acropolis. These neighborhoods are fun to explore, with random side streets that connect to each other and occasionally lead to an ancient church or a shopping corridor strung with lights. I avoided Psyrri, the district known for its nightlife, for obvious reasons. After checking out the National Archaeological Museum, I wandered around Exarchia, which was definitely the grittiest of the neighborhoods I visited. Graffiti covered every available inch of wall and art supply and record stores were on every block. It was not nearly as busy as where I had come from and sometimes I was the only person walking down the street, which was a little unnerving.
A word of caution: years and years of foot traffic have worn down the granite stairs and cobble-stone streets, so it is advised that you wear shoes with good traction when walking around the city. I wobbled a few times myself when traversing the streets in my sandals, and switched to sneakers for my hike up the Acropolis.
Running
The promenade that winds up the Acropolis, as well as the adjacent tree-covered Filapappou Hill and Overlook, offer a scenic route that stretches for a few miles. As previously mentioned, it’s best to get out early not only to avoid the heat, but also the flocks of tourists that descend upon the area when the attractions open at 8 am. It’s really very pleasant to take in the various sights without having to dodge crowds and traffic.
Food in Athens
As you would expect, the culinary scene in Athens is dominated by kebabs, feta, yogurt, and fresh vegetables such as cucumbers and zucchini. Coffee shops with various pastries are plentiful. They also have a substantially high ratio of gelato shops to humans–I even saw people eating it for breakfast. I guess that’s what you do when it’s 97 degrees out.
If you steer clear of the fancy restaurants, food is incredibly cheap here. Most mornings I grabbed a hand pie such as spinach and feta spanakopita and a cup of coffee for 4 Euro, and it stayed with me until mid-afternoon. One evening I bought a salad, a slice of pizza and a soda that cost me less than 7 Euro.
On my last night in Athens, I decided to treat myself to a nice dinner and went to Theta, located next to the Ancient Agora with a stunning view of the Acropolis. The food and service were excellent. I tried their tasty fried zucchini balls with yogurt dill sauce, and their shrimp risotto was perfect.
If you do decide to dine out at a restaurant, tipping is optional but 10-15% is common. I tipped 20%+ on my meals (and my tours and taxi rides). The folks who work in tourism in Greece don’t make much money, and are often taken advantage of. For instance, my taxi driver, a 22-year old college grad, told me he only makes 9 Euro per trip regardless of how far he drives or how long it takes.
Recovery Meetings in Athens
The Parthenon Group holds three English-speaking meetings a week: Wednesdays and Fridays at 7pm and Sundays at 1pm. It’s a well-attended group with a mix of expats and travelers. The clubhouse is located near Pedion Areos and Strefis Hill. If you take the train, get off at Victoria Station and plug the address into Google Maps. It’s about a 10 minute walk from the station and it’s tucked into a side street. There are other English-speaking meetings in the area but this one is the easiest to get to if you are staying near the Acropolis.
If you are interested in a vacation with history and culture like Athens, check out our destination guides on Istanbul and Portugal!
The Temperate Traveler 