Exploring Edinburgh: Tips for an Alcohol-Free Adventure

Wandering around the moody, charming capital of Scotland, you get the feeling that you are in a fairytale. Part of the United Kingdom, this metropolis is comprised entirely of brooding stone castles and churches, gothic-style facades, and cobblestone streets–with no room for any vibe-zapping high-rises or contemporary buildings. I half-expected a hobbit or a Harry Potter character to pop out of an alleyway.

The nooks and crannies of this centuries-old city are filled with culture and history. Early inhabitants date back to the Mesolithic era some 8500 years ago, and the craggy Edinburgh Castle looms over the city like a medieval Acropolis. Add in a few kilted men with bagpipes, and modern-day minstrels bopping around the Royal Mile during the famed annual Fringe Festival, and you’ll be thoroughly smitten with this crown jewel of the UK.

I traveled to Scotland with my mother for her milestone birthday, with the intention of soaking up as much culture as possible in the span of a long weekend. Edinburgh is a compact city. You can probably see everything in Edinburgh in three or four days. You can also extend your travels to other areas of Scotland, like the Highlands and the Isle of Skye, for the balance of your trip.

While standing in line for a comedy show during Fringe Festival, we started talking to a group of college-age guys from Glasgow. As intermittent rain fell, they told us that they haven’t had a nice summer in four years–it’s been nonstop dreariness. Asked how they deal with it, they said, “Oh, with alcoholism and jokes.” So, as a non-drinker navigating your way around Scotland, be prepared for that kind of conspicuous drinking culture. Read on to discover how you can enjoy your alcohol-free trip to Edinburgh!

Planning Your Sober Trip to Edinburgh

When Should I Plan My Trip to Edinburgh?

Even in mid-August, the weather in Edinburgh can be cold and drab. As a traveler unaccustomed to Northern European summers, I unwisely packed mostly shorts and tank tops. After getting stains on both the one sweater and the one sweatshirt I brought in my suitcase, I ducked into an outfitter and grabbed some fleece quarter-zips that I wore for the rest of the trip. Trying to schedule your Edinburgh trip around seasons is not a guarantee of pleasant meteorological conditions, as I discovered the hard way. That being said, wintertime is likely to bring cold, rain and snow, so Spring, Summer and Fall are your best bets to avoid inclement weather.

If your goal is to avoid crowds, then it is best not to head there during summer, especially during August and Fringe Fest, when the city is bustling with sightseers and festivalgoers. However, even when traveling in Edinburgh at peak tourist season while staying on the Royal Mile, we rarely felt annoyed by overwhelming throngs of humans, unlike some places we’ve been to.

Budgeting for Edinburgh

Similar to its sister city in the UK, London, Edinburgh is not cheap. If you are traveling from the US, your dollar will get you 25% less at the current exchange rate against the pound, and any decent accommodations close to the action will put a hit on your wallet. A nice dinner out (without alcohol, of course) will run you about $100-120, although there are plenty of cheaper options, as I detail below.

Unless you are heading outside of the city, you will save on transportation because you will basically walk everywhere. But if you need to take a bus, train, Uber or taxi, they are available. More on that below.

Booking Your Flight to Edinburgh

If you are booking a flight outside of the New York metro area, you will unfortunately have a layover, most likely at London Heathrow or Dublin. If that is the case, consider planning a multi-city trip. One-way Ryanair flights from either Dublin or London to Edinburgh will run you around $50.

While we are lucky enough to have Newark as our home airport, and were able to book a direct flight to Edinburgh, we still added a Dublin flight to our itinerary, as it is only an hour plane ride away.

One thing to note about flights into the UK: do not pack any liquids in your carry-on, even if they are in 3 oz. bottles. UK airport security are liquid Nazis–they even made me throw out travel-sized toothpaste and expensive eye cream. This same scenario played out in London Heathrow a few years ago where I basically had to dump $40 worth of toiletries, so I imagine all UK airports are like this.

We took a taxi from the airport to our apartment rental, since we didn’t feel like figuring out public transportation after a long flight, although there is a tram that goes from Edinburgh Airport to the city center. On our trip back to the airport a few days later, we took the Lothian bus located on the Waverly Bridge. It runs every 10 minutes and tickets will set you back about $7. The ride was convenient and hassle-free.

Getting Around in Edinburgh

Edinburgh is a walkable city. The Royal Mile is, well, a mile, and you could probably hoof it from the far end of the city proper to the other in about an hour. We walked everywhere, and while we logged a lot of steps on our Apple tracker, it was truly the easiest way to get around. Just make sure you bring an umbrella.

When you’ve fulfilled your daily steps quota 3x over, public transportation and Uber are both good options. Buses, trams and taxis are plentiful, affordable and clean. Uber is helpful for those times where you don’t necessarily know where you are going, and it’s raining.

If you are taking a jaunt outside of the city, you don’t need to rent a car–a train will be able to take you where you need to go. Historic Waverly Station is Edinburgh’s main transport hub and is situated right between Old Town and New Town. From here, you can catch a train heading as far as London’s King’s Cross station, and to numerous cities across Scotland, from Dundee to Glasgow.

Where to Stay in Edinburgh

There are a few areas in Edinburgh that are ideal for first timers. See below for descriptions on each:

Old Town-Edinburgh’s “Auld Toun” is exactly what you think it is–the oldest neighborhood in the city. Well-preserved Medieval buildings, cobblestone streets, and twisty, narrow alleyways define this part of town. The Royal Mile is a commercial street lined with restaurants and shops, with Edinburgh Castle at one end and The Palace at Holyroodhouse at the other. My mom and I stayed in an apartment rental a half-block off the Royal Mile and steps from Edinburgh station, right above a Pret A Manger. It’s a busy area, but the convenience can’t be beat, and it was relatively quiet at night.

New Town-Adjacent to Old Town, you can identify New Town by the shift in architectural style. Georgian townhomes and wide squares fill the landscape. The thoroughfare that is the heart of New Town, Princes Street, features many chain stores in which you can shop. Nestled above the Water of Leith, a few minutes’ walk from Princes Street, you will find the quaint, Instagram-worthy Dean Village.

West End/Haymarket-Containing a number of restaurants and shops, the West End/Haymarket area is slightly less touristy and cheaper than Old Town and New Town, but still in close proximity to the essential sights and attractions.

Fun Sober Things to do in Edinburgh

You’ll be sure to hear about Scotch whisky ad nauseum during your time in Edinburgh, to the point where it gets annoying. But fear not, as there are tons of activities to partake in besides getting drunk in a pub.

Hike Arthur’s Seat

Arthur’s Seat is an extinct volcano looming over Holyrood Park on the south side of Edinburgh. Hiking up to the summit takes 30-45 minutes and offers a panoramic view of the city and the Firth of Forth, which is part of the North Sea. On a weekend afternoon, it will be crowded, so bring your patience. Also bring your hiking boots–sections of the path are covered with loose gravel. My running shoes were no match, and I ended up on my butt in front of gawking hikers.

Castle-Hopping

There are two popular castles on either end of the Royal Mile: Edinburgh Castle and The Palace of Holyrood House. Edinburgh Castle has timed tickets, and it’s usually better to go early or late in the day, as it can get quite busy. Not only will you take in incredible 360-degree views of the city and the sea when visiting this attraction, but you’ll learn about fascinating Scottish history. Perched on the volcanic plug known as Castle Rock, Edinburgh Castle was a royal residence from the 11th Century until 1633, when it transitioned to a military garrison. The influential King James IV, son of Mary Queen of Scots, was born in this very castle. At various times it also served as a treasury, a national archive, a mint and a national archive. It encompasses numerous buildings, including a prison, living quarters, a chapel, great hall and other venues. You can take a guided tour or explore on your own, wandering around the grounds, taking in the views and feeling the whipping wind, just as so many historical figures did centuries before.

The Palace of Holyrood House is the official residence in Edinburgh for his Royal Highness, Charles III, and a treasure trove of Scottish history. More sprawling and lush than its rocky counterpart on the opposite end of the Royal Mile, The Palace includes gardens, galleries and Holyrood Abbey, the ruins of a medieval abbey built in 1128, for which the Palace is named.

Highlands Tour

While we were stationed Edinburgh for the duration of our stay, we wanted to take the opportunity to visit the scenic Scottish Highlands, and booked a day trip. There are a few different tours you can choose from, and we opted for the one headed to Loch Ness, Scottish Highlands, Glencoe and Pitlochry. A pit stop in charming Pitlochry gave us a taste of small-town life in Scotland, followed by a few hours in St. Augustus, the village on the shores of the famed Loch Ness. Along the way, the bus paused at numerous vistas to give us time for photo ops. The Scottish countryside emanates a forlorn, expansive beauty that is unique to this part of the world. Our guide provided ongoing commentary on all of the scenery, towns and monuments that we visited and passed, and we felt like we got a comprehensive lesson in Scottish culture and history.

Fringe Festival

Every August, the largest performing arts festival in the world descends onto Edinburgh. Spanning nearly a month, the 2024 iteration sold 2.6 million tickets to more than 50,000 scheduled performances. Thousands of music, drama, dance and comedy shows take place at venues across the city and outdoors at different spots on the Royal Mile. Many of these performers are amateurs looking for their big break–the writer and star of Netflix’s hit show Baby Reindeer got his start here. My mom and I bought tickets to an improv show and a stand-up show, and they were both a super fun way to spend an evening. If you are planning a trip to Edinburgh in August, check out the Fringe schedule here.

Where to Eat in Edinburgh

Scotland is not exactly known as a culinary mecca. During our time there, most of our meals were “pretty good”. See below for some of our favorites.

***We took a hard pass on the haggis, even though it is a traditional food in Scotland, so you will not find a review of that particular dish here!

The Painted Rooster

The Painted Rooster is a cozy cafe located steps from Dean Village and boasted the best Scottish breakfast we ate while in Edinburgh. In addition to the traditional breakfast plate, it offered an array of baked goods as well as sandwiches, soup, and milkshakes. Gluten-free options are available as well.

Coffee Shops in Edinburgh are ubiquitous and offer surprisingly large menus featuring quick, cheap, and delicious food. It was perfect for when we needed to grab a quick bite in between activities–or dinner when we were too tired to try to find a sit-down restaurant.

Black Sheep Coffee is a UK chain that serves up a wide-ranging menu of breakfast and lunch options, crepes, smoothies, pastries, snacks and of course coffee.

Pret A Manger is on every corner in Edinburgh (kind of like Wawa in Philly) and boasts the best fast-casual fare I’ve ever eaten. My mom and I went to the Pret conveniently located below our apartment rental, devouring their fresh parfaits, breakfast sandwiches and coffee.

Running in Edinburgh

Beautiful, uncrowded trails abound in Edinburgh for anyone heading out on an early morning jog. If you are staying near the Royal Mile, you can head south to Holyrood Park, which boasts a few miles of trails of varying difficulty.

The Water of Leith Walkway is a path that runs parallel to the River of Leith and extends for about 12 miles. I ran along this trail around 7am on a Tuesday and barely encountered another soul. It was peaceful but also a bit disconcerting, although the city is generally very safe.

Recovery Meetings

With English the prevailing language in Scotland, you will have no problem finding 12-Step meetings that fit your schedule in Edinburgh. You can find them here. I recommend the meeting on Tuesdays at 1pm that is located in a mausoleum in a historic church called St. Cuthbert’s, right off the Royal Mile. The setting is absolutely enchanting, especially as a longtime AA member who is accustomed to sitting in musty church basements, and the members were very welcoming of visitors.