Istanbul

Introduction

Istanbul is an ideal place to travel if you are not planning on drinking. While Turkey is technically a secular country, most of its citizens are Muslim, a religion in which alcohol is considered “haram” (prohibited or sinful). Instead, they love their tea and Turkish coffee. There are pockets of the city with bars and party-goers, but they are easy to avoid. Since the city has so much to offer in terms of tours, shopping, architecture, history, culture and food, there are plenty of activities to fill your time in which drinking is not even a consideration.

Istanbul is a delightful mix of new and old, with shiny contemporary buildings across the Bosphorus from a Roman-era Hippodrome, and historic bazaars and cobblestone streets alongside fancy high-rises and name brands. You’ll hear the call to prayer 5 times a day bellowing from the thousands of minarets across the city, sail back and forth across the Bosphorus waterway, get lost in the maze of the Grand Bazaar and probably want to take home several of the kitties you see wandering around the streets.

As one of the most beautiful cities in the world, Istanbul offers plenty of opportunities for Instagram photo ops. Check out the best photo spots in Istanbul!

Getting Around

• Ferries

Sehir Hatlari operates the ferries that criss-cross the Bosphorus. I’ve been on ferries before, but the ferries in Istanbul are by far the most impressive public transportation experience I’ve ever had. The beauty of the region is on full display: the sparkling water, the skyline pierced with minarets. You can pop over to the hip Kadikoy neighborhood or sail over to the Princes Islands, all for a few dollars per trip.

The Bosphorus Straight bisects Istanbul and is central to life in the city, from the fishermen who gather every morning on the eponymous bridge that connects the European and Asian sides of the capital, to the ferries that shuttle millions of people and goods across the straight each day. Check out this article from Explore With Finesse to take a deeper dive into this iconic body of water!

• Istanbul Metro

The Metro is easy to navigate and is by far the best way to get around the city. Coming from the historic district, we were able to easily access Istiklal street, Taksim Square, Dolmabache Palace and other points of interest. During peak times it can get crowded, but it is safe and clean.

Where to Stay

We stayed in the Albinas Hotel Old City in Sultanahmet. It was a cute boutique hotel that was super affordable and perfectly located in the heart of the historic district. There were multiple decent restaurants nearby and it was minutes from the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, and Basilica Cistern as well as the Metro. If you are a first-time traveler to Istanbul, I recommend staying in Sultanahmet. Though it’s a little touristy, it is a solid home-base for exploration.

Fun Activities

• Tour of Sultanahmet

We did a full-day walking tour of the historic district to get the lay of the land. It’s the best way to hit all of the Istanbul essentials, meet other tourists, and ask questions of our tour guide about other must-see attractions and activities. Sites such as the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace and Grand Bazaar are all within walking distance of each other, and it’s always a more enriching experience to have an expert explaining the historical significance of these places to you.

• Istiklal Caddesi

Translated as “Independence Avenue”, Istiklal Caddesi is a mile-long pedestrian walkway located in the Beyoglu district that draws 3 million visitors on some weekend days. Neon signs for Nike and H&M blink alongside music stores, bookstores, art galleries, movie theaters, restaurants and patisseries, housed in stately Ottoman-era buildings that loom over the street. While there is a bar area off Istiklal Caddesi that locals and tourists frequent to imbibe, they are located off the main avenue and probably outnumbered by the baklava shops. It is worth it to wander the alleyways behind the main drag, as there are some neat bazaars, cafes and hookah lounges to be found.

• Grand Bazaar

While there are bazaars (markets) all over the city, the Grand Bazaar is the mother of them all. A labyrinth of 4,000 vendors with 250,000-400,000 daily visitors, the Grand Bazaar offers everything from scarves to dried fruit and nuts to jewelry. Between us, Tim and I bought 5 pairs of New Balance sneakers for about $100 total.

• Princes Islands

Accessible only by ferry, the Princes Islands are a respite from the hustle and bustle of Istanbul proper. While there are nine islands, you can only visit four, and Büyükada is the most interesting from a tourist perspective. There are very few cars on the island, and most folks get around on foot or one of the horse-drawn carriages that you can flag down anywhere. There are some gorgeous, scenic spots for photos, and along the coast you can see how truly huge Istanbul is from afar–a skyline of buildings for as far as the eye can see.

• Intercontinental

Not an “activity”, per se, but its tea room is open to the public and has the best views in all of Istanbul. Visit right before sunset to get the most revelatory experience.

• Yoros Kalesi

A Byzantine castle at the mouth of the Black Sea, this site is reachable by ferry. A small town greets you as you step off the boat, offering some shopping and good seafood restaurants.

• Kadikoy

Most of the expats we met during our trip lived in this neighborhood. It features cool restaurants and cafes, including this Breaking Bad-inspired coffee shop.

Food

• Food tour

We booked a food tour with the company Withlocals through Viator. It’s a private walking tour around the popular neighborhoods of Istanbul, which gave us a local’s experience with Turkish cuisine. Our guide was a pastry chef herself, who was very knowledgeable about both the food culture and the city. Just let the company know prior to the tour that you will not be drinking, since sometimes they include alcoholic beverages on the tour.

• Baklava

Baklava is EVERYWHERE, and it’s amazing.

• Cafes

There are about 57 cafes on every block, and the staff are very aggressive in competing for diners. After getting menus shoved into your hands every time you walk down a street, you will learn to ignore them. Pretty much every restaurant has kababs and a terrace, so it’s better to do your homework on a specific neighborhood you will be in prior to getting hungry, so that you won’t get accosted by a waiter when you pause to look at a menu posted outside the door of a restaurant.

The best areas for finding a great meal are Beygolu and Kadikoy. Sultanahmet has some good eats too, but is a little more touristy and expensive.

During your trip, make sure you find yourself some pide. It’s a personal-sized flatbread with crispy edges stuffed with various fillings. We called it “boat pizza” and it’s delicious!

Running

Istanbul is very safe for tourists, and I had no issues running in the morning by myself (aside from a rabid stray dog that chased me down the street). Gulhane Park is a well-maintained spot with some trails in Sultanahmet. There is a waterfront trail that takes you along the outer rim of the historic district and up across the Galata bridge, past the throng of fishermen, into Galata and Beyoglu. Since Istanbul is such a populous city, you have to run in the morning to avoid the inevitable jam of people, traffic and public transportation that materializes after about 9:30 or 10am.

Kitties

I’m pretty sure the cats of Istanbul were my favorite part of our trip. They appear out of every nook and cranny in the city and they are so adorable and tame. Local residents and restaurant owners often put out food for them, and they are very comfortable around people.

There are stray dogs too, although one chased me down the street during a morning run, so I would not recommend trying to pet them!

Recovery Meetings

There is a surprisingly strong expat recovery community in Istanbul. Believe it or not, Tim and I hung out with a girl whom I had met years before at an AA convention when we were both living in California! Everyone was super friendly, and we ended up spending a lot of time after each meeting we attended with some of the group members, who were only too happy to bring us to different restaurants and hidden gems around the city. Here is the website for their meetings.

Interested in learning about other historic travel destinations? Check out our section for history buffs!